JGBP88CEL2CC General Electric Range - Instructions

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

Two set screws in rear; removed easily with a screwdriver. Old oven floor lifted out easily; new oven floor dropped in just as easily; set screws re-installed. Done. Pleasantly surprised at how easy this went.

remove old burner, put new in place

Easy

The part that was ordered based on the shamanic wasn't the part that was needed for the repair. It was to short. I took the other screw for the other side and that screw was an inch longer than the screw that was ordered thru your company. I then went too a jar that I placed extra screws, nuts and bolts which l keep in my garage . I found a same length screw but a different head and it works perfectly fine. When I ordered the part from your company most of the parts did not have a photo of the part on file, or a description like how long the part is. I still ordered it because it should fit the make and model number that was posted on the shamanic that was showed to me on line.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

I have no clue what wire goes where because there is no thing to refer to or instructions of any kind . I have not been able to install the part.

Start by removing all screws 3 for each burner total of 15 t-15 bit is required then proceed to remove spark igniters 5 total slight pull next step would be to slide a screwdriver under top left and right side to remove top shelf. There you will have access to the parts you need to replace. When done just reverse installation instructions to complete

Removed burner and replaced

Removed grill grates, gas distributors, etc. (just lift off). Used star screwdriver to remove screws (3 per burner for SML, 2 for power burner). Lift off stainless cover, which also lifts off the white sparkers I was replacing. Pull them off the wires (didn't need pliers, others said they did). Replace (make sure it is all the way on) and reverse your steps. White sparkers electrodes seemed loose when I put them back on, but tightened up when I fully secured the top back on. Make sure the wires aren't pinched underneath when you put the top back on. Recommended: If you've got one that isn't working, go ahead and replace all 3 (power burner is different) because the part is so cheap you may as well just do it now.

Trial and error--there were no directions. We did not know how to take the old handle off, Did not know we had to take the door apart.

Husband actually did the repair, It went really well except he forgot to remove the heat shield from the old part to attach to the new bottom. (His mistake!)

called appliance repairman. He found problem and ordered new part. After 2 months waiting for part to get there, my husband got on internet and calld your number, and ordered what was needed. Now for the great thing. Within 4 working days we received what we thought we needed. but we had ordered the wrong part number. Got back on internet, went right to your web site, found the part that we did need, a flame spreader instead of the Deflector. called your service number, talked to a very nice person, again, told her what we did and ordered the correct part. Another great thing, we got that part the very next day. I returned the wrong part that same day. We then had our son install it and now we have a very nice working oven. Though out this very long ordeal, we talked to the applicance service people and got the same answer. The part has been ordered and it should be here next week. When we found your web site and called for the part, I called the appliance service and told them we had ordered the part ourselves and I would be happy to give her this information. THE VERY NEXT DAY she called us to tell us the part had fially arrived and they could come out the next day. Told them sorry but it as already taken care of. The very next time we need some part for any appliance we will call you first. Thank you for your very nice service people and the fast way that this all took place.

I removed the bottom drawer, oven racks and bottom cover inside over, removed the screw at the front end of the burner. Unplugged the wire connector for the igniter. Removed the two retaining screws from the burner tube, removed from oven. Removed mounting screws from igniter to use on the new tube and igniter. Wire terminal did not match. Cut wire connector from old igniter, cut wire connector from new igniter. install old connector on new igniter with wire nuts.Install burner tube in oven. Connect igniter connector together. Reinstall over cover and racks. install bottom drawer. Turn on oven. Yah. It works. Their was a hold burned in the old burner tube causing the popping noise and finely not operating. Good to go. Bruce L Best Sr

You first must remove the burners on the cooktop to gain access. They are secured with 2 Torx screws which are accesiable after removing the burner covers. The igniters wires must also be removed which simply are push on connections. The cooktop must be removed by inserting a scredriver on each corner of the cooktop from the front. They simply push in and the entire top lifts off. Remove 4 screws covering an access panel located in the front of the cooktop to gain access to the motor/latch, which is secured by two screws accessiable from opening the oven door just below the latch. Replace motor/latch and reassemble. Carefull with the wiring as the replacment switch has been changes. The wires on the left switch of the old assembly get connected to right switch on the new assembly, and the right side wires on the old get connected to left side on the new. Reassemble and Viola!