JGBP87DEM1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Remove drawer by pulling out and lifting up so drawer will slide out of range. Use 1/4 inch Nutdriver or socket - remove the screw that holds the drawer support to the body of the range. Remove support and install new one with screw Pay attention to the way the support fits. There are two holes one for the screw and the other for the plastic prong on the bottom of the support. The prong fits in the bottom hole and the screw in the above hole.

The part was very easy to switch out but it made no difference whatsoever so I returned it. The way it is designed is the problem. There is a pie slice shaped gap on the burner which causes a gap of no flame. Also a C shaped cut out around the igniter which causes another no flame gap.

Remove the existing burner and install the replacement.

In my case it was the lower burner so I unplugged oven and turned gas off.
Then I removed the bottom drawer, and the lower burner cover.
Next unplug Oven Igniter, found where drawer existed.
Removed 2 screws attaching Igniter using nutdriver
Placed new Igniter on
Plug Igniter in and tested oven
Replace burner cover and drawer


This was much easier then what I went through with a repair man the first time around. These Igniter are designed for certain model stoves and are not interchangable with other model stoves!!!

Too easy a five year old could do it

In general, other repair stories on this site collectively give a good description of the repair process. My words concern the decision that has to be made as to which element is bad - igniter or gas valve. To reach a conclusion about this question, I was comforted by the fact that I could measure the AC electric current through the gas valve which then let me decide that my problem was in the igniter. Since the circuit is a simple series with three elements, thermostat, igniter, and valve and the resistance of the valve unit was 1.0 to 1.2 ohms (per GE range equipment instruction which came with the range) by measuring the AC volts across the valve, I found (by dividing the volts AC across the gas valve (2.3 volts) by the resistance of the valve mechanism (1.0 ohms) that my old igniter was only supplying 2.3 AC amperes (instruction sheet states 2.9 amps. is needed to actuate the valve and further while heating of the oven is occurring the valve AC current will raise to 3.2 to 3.6 amps.). At 2.3 amps. the igniter will glow at a yellow color but will not actuate the valve. When you replace the old igniter with a new one you will enjoy to measure voltage across the gas valve once again and discover that the voltage rises to 2.9 volts and that the gas turns on and the heater tube gas is ignited.

In order to get to the burner switch you must remove the top of the range. Removed the 2 screws in the front holding it down then tried to remove the burner mounting screws securing the burner holders in place. Of the 12 screws, 10 were frozen. The screws sheared when I tried to remove them. After removing the top, I removed the burner holders one at a time and drilled out the broken screws. I would have purchased replacements but the part was listed as unavailable. I removed the front panel which exposed the switches. I cut the wires of the defective switch and used heat shrink crimp connectors to connect the new switch. With the top off the ignition module in the back of the range is exposed. I popped the old one out, changed the wires to the new one, one at a time and secured the new one in place with wire ties as the mounting tabs did not line up. Reassembled the range top using new #8 3/4" stainless steel screws to secure the burner holders. Plugged it in, turned on the gas and voila all the burners light. What should have been a 2 hour job took about 10 hours due to having to drill out the sheared screws.

I remove the old thermostat and realized right away it was burned, the replacement was very easy to clip on

I ordered the new burner head and replaced it and now it works perfectly.

Removed two screws to remove old bottom. Insert new oven bottom and re-attach screws.

Took off broken part and replaced it with the new part by removing a Phillips head screw, the broken part, replace with new and reinstalling the same screw.

Very simple. Lift oven door off brackets and set on floor. Remove sheet metal screws holding on existing trim piece, Clean area beneath trim.
Put new trim piece on, don't tighten any of the screws until all have been started as some adjustment is needed to align the holes for the screws.

Step 1 pull the broiler completely out of the bottom of the oven. Step 2 unplug the igniter Step 3 remove 3 small screws to pull the burner tube completely out of the oven. Step 4 replace the igniter and repeat steps to install burner tube back into the oven.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Unscrewed eight screws. Removed rusted part. Cleaned area with Windex. Replaced new part.