JDP39CK4CC General Electric Range - Instructions

First and most important trun off curcit breaker. Use 1/4 inch but driver to remove socket (2) screws. Remove ground and hot wire clips from old socket, replace on new socket. Screw back into oven ceiling and turn on power. Reset clock and your are done. Very simple.

After removing power from the range, I pulled the unit out for better access to the rear. I carefully pulled all four knobs off the front of the control panel. Next, using a short phillips screwdriver, I removed two screws from the front bottom of the control panel. On the rear of the control panel, there are four screws to loosen, now the whole panel is free to remove toward the front of the unit. The burner switches are held onto the panel with two screws that are located on the front under where the knob had been. The wires are all connected to the switch with crimp type connectors. These are on tight, but can be removed carefully with pliers. Before doing so, I took a picture on my phone to ensure I replaced the wires in the correct order. Everything goes back together in reverse order. This is a good time to clean behind and under the whole stove. The whole process took around 20 minutes.

Very easy to remove the parts and to reassemble

unscrew the terminal block,pulled the old wires out,installed the new wires installed the new block

Replaced old with new.

I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried the oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.

Turned off the oven power at the breaker. Removed the oven door by opening it all the way down. Flip the two metal tabs, one on each side, so the door releases. I used a flathead screwdriver to do it. Close door almost all the way and lift up to remove. Once the door is removed, there are two screws in the back of the oven connected to the heating element. Unscrew both screws. Gently pull out the heating element from the back wall. There are two terminals connected to wire clips holding the wiring in the back. disconnect, both terminals from the wire clips. Be careful not to pull on the wire or pull out from the wall too far. Connect to the new heating element to the same wire clips gently push it back into the wall reattached the two screws, reattached the door and turn on the breaker and test the heating element. I used YouTube to figure out how to disconnect and reconnect the door so that is an option.

Took the oven door off and removed the inner door panel, put new glass assembly part in and reassembled. The hard part was getting the door hinges locked back into place.

0) Take the back cover of the range off.
1) Carefully noted how the wires and the sockets were connected.
2) Visually checked that the new parts were practically identical old ones.
3) Put together the new sockets from the parts in the kit.
4) disconnect the old sockets and put the new sockets in place.
5) For each unit disconnect one old wire at the time and connect the new wire. Repeat the same for second wire.
6) Neatly bunch together the rest of the wires with electrical tape. Do not cut the wires!

That's it! It took about 20-30 minutes.

I carefully removed the burners, removed the bowls and replaced them with the new ones. Easy as pie!

slid the old ones out and slid the new ones in. done

Turne off power to range..pulled oven out..Took top back panel off with nut driver. 4screws .. Took picture of control board....removed bad control board with Phillips driver...4 screws....installed New board...removed 1 connection at a time and replaced in New board..Turned power on to test new board...check picture to make sure connections are correct...turn off power...put back panel back on...put range back in place...turn power back o n...done ..approximate time 15 to 20 minutes..

I turned off the circuit breaker and unplugged the stove. I removed the back panel and marked the location of the wires on the new oven clock control. I detached the wires and removed the old card. I installed the new one and reconnected the wires. I plugged the stove and turned on the circuit breaker. All the lights came on and the oven worked fine. I reinstalled the back panel and it took me less than thirty minutes to complete the job.

Pulled the range out and unplugged it. Removed the back panel. Removed one wire at a time and plugging it in on the new switch. unscrewed the existing switch from the front panel (Two screws). Screwed the new one in, replaced the panel, plugged in the range and tested it. The new switch was a perfect OEM replacement and worked perfectly.

Pulled stove out and unplugged. At the rear of the range there were 4 faster. Used a nutdriver piece in an electric drill. Pulled off the cover and located the switch. At the front of the stove, I removed the knob and unscrewed two screws releasing the switch. I undid and replaced each wire connector one-by-one to avoid any wrong connections. Replaced and secured the switch and replace the back panel. All secured, power on and fixed! Easy repair, but something that had been put off for a year!
Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!