24688B0 General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Arthur from Indian Harbour Beach, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB21X36771
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Halogen element staying on
removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.
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- Customer:
- K from PERRYVILLE, MO
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5012
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
heating element shorting out-sparking
I turned off electric to the stove. In the oven, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. After unpacking the new element, I placed it in the bottom of the oven, reconnected the two wires, and gently fed the wires back into the back of the oven. I then secured the new unit to the oven wall with the two screws.
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- Customer:
- Elaine from Hanover, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5012
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Lower bake element burned out.
1. Turned off power at the breaker box. Removed oven door from oven, and removed bake racks. Determined replacement element from PartSelect was correct. Inspected new element. Using meter, determined new element was OK via continuity test. Gathered all appropriate tools to do the job.
2. Using 1/4" nut driver, removed two retaining screws at back of oven that secure element
3. Pulled bad element out a few inches from oven back to reveal wires and spade connectors
4. Using screwdriver, pushed off electrical connectors from bad element and removed element
5. Inspected wires and connectors and determined them to be OK
6. Installed new element in reverse of above. Inspected oven controls and determined them to be OK. Turned on the breaker. Tested oven.
7. Baked a delicious chocolate cake
2. Using 1/4" nut driver, removed two retaining screws at back of oven that secure element
3. Pulled bad element out a few inches from oven back to reveal wires and spade connectors
4. Using screwdriver, pushed off electrical connectors from bad element and removed element
5. Inspected wires and connectors and determined them to be OK
6. Installed new element in reverse of above. Inspected oven controls and determined them to be OK. Turned on the breaker. Tested oven.
7. Baked a delicious chocolate cake
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- Customer:
- Charles from Damascus, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5012
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench (Adjustable)
Bake element broken
Before ordering, I took the element out to make sure I could do it. A flashlight was helpful.
I flipped off the circuit breakers to the stove, removed the racks and lifted off the oven door. Not having a nutdriver or socket set, I used a 6' crescent wrench to remove the two screws which hold the element to the back of the oven. I carefully pulled the element out until the spade connectors to the wires were exposed. I wiggled the connectors apart. I had pliers handy, but didn't need them.
I connected the new element to the wires and gently pushed the two connected prongs through their holes, trying not to disturb the insulation. I put a little WD-40 on the screws so they would go in easier. After tightening the screws with the crescent wrench, I replaced the racks and door. I flipped the circuit breaker back on and reset the clock. It works as good or better than new.
I flipped off the circuit breakers to the stove, removed the racks and lifted off the oven door. Not having a nutdriver or socket set, I used a 6' crescent wrench to remove the two screws which hold the element to the back of the oven. I carefully pulled the element out until the spade connectors to the wires were exposed. I wiggled the connectors apart. I had pliers handy, but didn't need them.
I connected the new element to the wires and gently pushed the two connected prongs through their holes, trying not to disturb the insulation. I put a little WD-40 on the screws so they would go in easier. After tightening the screws with the crescent wrench, I replaced the racks and door. I flipped the circuit breaker back on and reset the clock. It works as good or better than new.
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- Customer:
- James from Seattle, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5012
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Baking element burned through.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place, I then pulled the element out about three inches, and it shorted out on the main panel of the back of the range. I then went to the breaker box and flipped the switch so I could tell my wife "Yes, I had turned the power off."
Disconnecting the two wires and reconnecting them was a simple operation after I cleaned my pants from the electrical short.
Re attaching the two-screw panes to hold the element in place finished the project.
Disconnecting the two wires and reconnecting them was a simple operation after I cleaned my pants from the electrical short.
Re attaching the two-screw panes to hold the element in place finished the project.
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- Customer:
- David from Woodbridge, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5012
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
burned out
My dealer was unable to find the part even with a model number. Your accurate drawings allowed me to select correct part. It was a perfect replacement in every way and cheaper (by $10) than the dealer. Also quicker.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Woolwich Twp., NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB21X36771
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
no power going to burner when switch is on, switch bad
I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My knob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.
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- Customer:
- Thomas N from Blackfoot, ID
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5012
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven wouldn't heat bottom
.First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and reversed the procedure with the new element very simple.
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- Customer:
- Anna from Texas City, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5012
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
The oven heating element broke in two.
Rating: 5 Stars!! We cut the power, removed two screws disconnected the two wires (just pulled them out of the covers) from the old element and pushed in the new ones. It didn't take longer than 10 minutes!
This is the first time it's been as easy as promised! Great customer service in addition to easy and reasonable prices!
Thank you,
This is the first time it's been as easy as promised! Great customer service in addition to easy and reasonable prices!
Thank you,
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- Customer:
- Val Ray from Idaho Falls, ID
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5012
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Lower bake element shorted out.
1st, Turn off the stove at the electrical box. 2nd, Remove the oven door by opening it to the first stop, and then pulled it straight up. 3rd, Remove the 2 screws using a 1/4" nut driver. 4th Pull the old heating element straight out, until the two wires that attach to the element are out 3" from rear oven wall. (Note: Place a peace of tape around each wire before disconnecting from the element. this will keep the wires from falling back through the holes). Remove the wires from the old element and remove the old element. 4th Place the new element into the oven, place the wires onto the new element. Then reverse the order of removal for new element install, for the repair. Less than 10 minutes.
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- Customer:
- andrew from langdon, ND
- Parts Used:
- WB21X36771
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Switch - and the connection wire to the burner
First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.
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- Customer:
- William from Duvall, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB21X36771
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Burner only worked on High and very low temperature setting.
Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.
Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.
Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.
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- Customer:
- Kathy from Norwell, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5012
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The bake element burned out.
This was really easy considering what it would have cost to have a repair person come and do it - not to mention the wait time. I had to hunt around a little bit to find the right socket, but once I had that, I unscrewed the bolts in the back and slide the element out. TIP: make sure you turn off the electricity!!!!!!!!! The wires were a little stuck, but the oven is 11 years old, so it's to be expected. One of the wires came off behind the oven, but I used needle nose pliers and fished around until I grabbed it. I detached the wires, attached the new ones, turned the electricity on and it's been baking Christmas cookies ever since. BTW - the part came in 3 days. I was sooo happy I didn't have to wait for a repair person. Thanks for all of you who posted your comments online. That was just the encouragement I needed to try it myself!
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- Customer:
- Charles from Poplarville, MS
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5012
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Bake Element Melted
As others have described, the removal of the old bake element is easy, just undo screws in the mount holding it to the inside wall of oven and pull out, then disconnect wires.
The first thing I faced unique is that some of the old element melted on the walls of my oven. After scrubbing extensively, it was obvious that the majority of the melted element was permanently fused with the oven wall--although it doesn't seem to have affected oven performance so far.
Next since my range was made in 1982, the replacement bake element didn't exactly fit my unit. Several adjustments had to be made. The size and fuctionality of the new bake element matched my oven, however the wire connections and the oven wall mounting bracket and the spacing of the two ends of the element as it went thru the oven wall were very different and required extensive modifications.
I used the old mounting bracket from the old melted element to attach the new element since my oven wall opening and mounting holes matched the old element mount--NOT the new element mount. This required removing the old mount from the old element by means of a vice, hacksaw and wirecutters. It was necessary to examine the old element mount very carefully before I hacksawed it off the old element as it must be reconfigured onto the new element. It will be bent up somewhat while removing---be careful.
Then I reattached the old mount on the new element. This required carefully bending the new element ends to receive the old mount as they were spread too far apart in the new element configuration. After much trial and error bending with several types of wirecutters the old mount was secured to the new element and installed into the oven.
Now a new problem appeared--the element ends now stuck too far into the back wall of the oven, making them dangerously close to touching the exterior of the rear of the oven and remember these are bare, hot electric connections! Much time in trial bendings and repositioning of the new element with the old mount finally resulted in a successful mounting with the old mount and the new element in a way that safely kept the bare wire connections within the rear oven walls.
A final problem was encountered when the new element came with slide-on wire connectors while my old element had screws and holes to connect the wires together. I found a drill bit the size of the required screws and drilled holes in the new element's wire slide-on connectors so that I could use the screw connector system of my old element to connect my new element's wires together. It all worked and the oven is functional.
The first thing I faced unique is that some of the old element melted on the walls of my oven. After scrubbing extensively, it was obvious that the majority of the melted element was permanently fused with the oven wall--although it doesn't seem to have affected oven performance so far.
Next since my range was made in 1982, the replacement bake element didn't exactly fit my unit. Several adjustments had to be made. The size and fuctionality of the new bake element matched my oven, however the wire connections and the oven wall mounting bracket and the spacing of the two ends of the element as it went thru the oven wall were very different and required extensive modifications.
I used the old mounting bracket from the old melted element to attach the new element since my oven wall opening and mounting holes matched the old element mount--NOT the new element mount. This required removing the old mount from the old element by means of a vice, hacksaw and wirecutters. It was necessary to examine the old element mount very carefully before I hacksawed it off the old element as it must be reconfigured onto the new element. It will be bent up somewhat while removing---be careful.
Then I reattached the old mount on the new element. This required carefully bending the new element ends to receive the old mount as they were spread too far apart in the new element configuration. After much trial and error bending with several types of wirecutters the old mount was secured to the new element and installed into the oven.
Now a new problem appeared--the element ends now stuck too far into the back wall of the oven, making them dangerously close to touching the exterior of the rear of the oven and remember these are bare, hot electric connections! Much time in trial bendings and repositioning of the new element with the old mount finally resulted in a successful mounting with the old mount and the new element in a way that safely kept the bare wire connections within the rear oven walls.
A final problem was encountered when the new element came with slide-on wire connectors while my old element had screws and holes to connect the wires together. I found a drill bit the size of the required screws and drilled holes in the new element's wire slide-on connectors so that I could use the screw connector system of my old element to connect my new element's wires together. It all worked and the oven is functional.
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- Customer:
- Stephen from Kokomo, IN
- Parts Used:
- WB21X36771
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner not heating properly
1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.
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