JB940CB4CC General Electric Range - Instructions

Followed directions that I found on the internet and it was easy to remove the old burner and replace it with the one I ordered from you. There was no problems at all.

Turned off the power to the stove. Removed the oven door, Removed two screws holding the metal housing from the oven wall. pulled the assembly forward, removed the two electrical wires from the back of the socket, installed new gasket on back of metal assembly,inserted the wires thru the hole in the metal assembly, attached the wires to the new socket, pushed the new socket in place making sure the two holding clamps were in place, screwed assembly back in oven wall, replaced new bulb, replaced glass cover over bulb, Replaced oven door, turned the power back on, Light works like new.

I ordered the part on a Monday and Tuesday afternoon I received it! I went a route I often take first. I read the instructions of others before starting my job and opened the top of the range. There are two screws under the range top in front near the oven door, one on either side, that must be removed. After this I opened the top of the range and positioned a piece of 2X2 about 20 inches long at an angle to hold the top up while I worked on the burner. I then used my phone to take a close up picture of the old burner while in place in my range so I could refer to it when putting the new one in place. I then took a pair of needle nose pliers and pulled off the wiring, then removed lock washers under the burner and removed the old burner, being careful not to lose the washers and springs. I took the new burner and layed it along side the old one to see exactly how it would be placed under the glass cover. I replace the springs and lock washers then referred to my photo and replace all the wires to the burner as they had been. Then lowered the top in place and put the screws back in place. That was it. I'm a 67 year old female, if I can do this, anyone can!

Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.

Included instructions were easy to follow until I got to the place where there was no GND terminal on the replacement controller. Instructions said to tape or place the green tail under the Clock Bracket before reassembly. After 30 minutes of "we don't have an exploded parts chart here, schedule a repairman" from the part provider, from GE Answer Desk, and GE Parts Dept., I still do not know what the Clock Bracket is. Since the green ground is attached to the metal control panel, I ended up just taping the connector and coiling the wire up and out of the way. Oven seems to be working as it should.

It is first necessary to remove the door from the range according to the manufacturer's instructions. Once removed, lay it down on a flat, protected surface with the outside facing down. Remove the two upper phillips screws and the hex nuts on the bottom channel. Next, separate the inside panel from the outside panel. You will then see the remaining hex nuts that have to be removed in order to replace either the bottom trim channel or the side pieces.