JSP34WW3WW General Electric Range - Instructions

twisted it in place

Replaced drip pans

I just follow Steve's Installation Vidio. My range works.
Thanks Steve

I followed the instructions given to me in the package and all went well. I cut the old wires off the burnt terminal block, stripped the wires, installed the wire nuts with the shrink rap, installed the new terminal block and burner. The new burner is working great! Thanks

The customer service rep was brilliant in finding the
right part number! It was sent the following day
(with email to let me know) The part itself was just
exactly like the old one. I simply turned off the power,
removed the 2 metal screws and unplugged the
broken element. The new one fit properly and works
like a million dollars. For about $50, you made me
look like a hero in my own house! Thjank you

I simply replaced the element. HOWEVER, the most wonderful parts of this repair...Because of the pictures and closeups and descriptions I knew exactly 'what' to order! And I had the replacement in less than 24 hours. I can do some home repairs but this company provided such detailed information AND speed of delivery...that this was a no-fuss fix. I'll definitely stop by to buy, again. Thanks!

Replaced

First pull knob off switch. You may need a small screwdriver to gently start it. I then removed two screws, one in each end of control panel. Then rolled the panel up and out, as it is kind of hinged in the back. Removed two screws from switch front,layed it to the side and installed new switch. Removed wires (there were 5) one at a time with needle nose pliers, and placed on new switch. Replaced panel screws and was finished. Easy fix, quick delivery of part, I have used Partselect in the past and will continue.

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

repair went fine, real easy.

i slid the oven out unplugged it !! , removed back cover with a nut driver, removed the two retaining nuts from the old bake element ,opened oven door removed two nuts that hold bake element to the back of the oven , installed new bake element then attached wires in the back of oven to the new element re installed retaining screws inside oven , check to make sure screws that hold power cord wires to the over are TIGHT !! i then installed rear cover then plugged in the oven it worked great !!

Safety first: Turn range circuit breaker to off position. Turn a surface unit [burner] to the on position ,if no light exists power has been removed. Turn surface unit to off position. To remove bake unit. With a 1/4 socket driver remove two self tapping screws and gently pull out on the bake unit until you can access the slide on terninals. Careful lenth of wire is limited. Remove slide on terminals two each [2] . Install new bake unit in reverse order . Restore power

I turned off the main power! Then unscrewed the back cover unhooked the wires and unscrewed the coil inside of the oven and pulled it out. My 10yr old son and I measured it and went online to order the part. I first did go into BestBuy and they didn't have the part (But they tried to sale me a new oven!) LOL Now who said a newly divorced mom couldn't fix her own oven! My Tech Support skills came in handy! Women Rock! LOL

I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS
LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL,
OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER,
UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL
TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS
SCREW THE OTHER ENDS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR

After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son had spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.