JBP35BB2AD General Electric Range - Instructions

I dis asymbled the door to access the broken end cap screw holders(plastic) Take great caution with the door glass. It is held in place by thin stamped steel slots and when taking the door face apart, the glass is free to fall out. I placed four strips of adhesive tape on the glass to hold it in place while I replaced the handle end caps. Use an electric screwdriver to place the retainer screws. It speeds up the work, and allows your other hand to stabilize the door. Caution to not over torque the steel screws. They screw into plastic and can strip easy. Another point: These replacement End Caps did not come with any supporting hardware - screws. I was lucky in that I retained the original screws and they were in good condition and could be recycled. Very impressed with the service, would recommend to all. Frighteningly fast delivery. I was shocked to see the box on my porch in just a few days.

R/
CSB

Yeah, so I didn't read the manual the first time we ran the self-clean cycle on the oven. Something about taking the racks out. So these were my little reminder to never do that again. The old racks came out; the new ones went in. Ten seconds. On to the next embarrassment...

With circuit breaker off, I opened the oven door and removed the two mounting hex-head screws that held the cooking element at the rear of the oven. I pulled the oven away from the wall and unplugged the unit's 220 volt power cord from the wall. I removed the rear cover panel by removing five hex-head screws that held the panel in place. I sought out the wires that connected to the oven element and pulled the tabs from the failed element. I moved to the front of the stove to remove the old element. As the contact ends of the element are curved up, I needed to lift the front of the old element up to an approximate angle of 45 degrees before I was able to remove it from the oven. I then placed the new element into the mounting holes, again with the front of the element raised at an angle. Its insertion was easily performed. I replaced the main element mounting screws at the rear of the oven. I went to the rear of stove again and reconnected the power tabs to the element contacts. I repositioned the rear cover panel and replaced the five hex-head screws to secure it into place. The main power was reconnected to the power outlet and carefully slid the stove back into position. Circuit power was reset and the oven tested successfully.

took of the back panel with a nut driver,pulled off the wires one at a time ,put them on the new switch in same position as the old switch.removed old switch with a screwdriver ,screwed in new switch,replaced back panel,put on switch knob

Removed the broken socket, and replaced with new one.

Removed the screws holding the back in place, then pulled off the control knob and removed the two screws holding the infinity switch. Swapped the leads from the old to the new switch and reinstalled everything. Worked like a champ!

Unplug stove first. Raised the stove top and propped up useing wooden spoon and wife assistance holding up. Pay attention to spot brackets hand to top. Removed sheet metal screws from bracket clamp holding burner in place. Removed one extension bracket from old burner and transfeered to new burner. Removeing one bracket clamp allows the other one to act like a hinge and make for easy removal and replacement. Back of burner had corresponding numbers which made it easy to replace brackets in same place as old. I carefully take one electrical wire at a time from old burner and transfeered to the new burner. Replaced burner same way it came off.

When we moved into our new home I discovered that the oven that came with the home did not have any racks in it. I ordered these racks because they said they were compatible with Hotpoint ovens. However, when the racks arrived they were just a tad too wide to easily slide in the oven. With a bit of force my husband was able to shove the racks in. Luckily I don't cook enough to care if they are moved again because I don't think they'll come out easily.

unplug stove first...take back of stove off to get to burner switch remove wires colors coded.. get new switch put wires on the same way.plug stove in test burner...very simple to replace.and save $$$$$$$$

First I shut off power to the unit. Then I removed the oven shelves. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place using a socket ratchet. Then I carefully pulled the element out a few inches. I had some clothes pins with me because I read how some people had problems with the wire leads slipping back into the unit insulation. When the terminals and wire leads were exposed, I clamped the clothes pins on the wires between the leads and the oven wall so the wires could not be pulled back into the wall. Then I disconnected the wires from the old element. Next, I connected the new element to the wires, removed the clothes pins and gently nudge the element terminals back into the oven wall. Then I put the screws back to secure the element. Finally, I turn the power on and set the oven to 400 degrees. When I saw the element get red hot in a couple of minutes, I knew it was fixed. I've used it several times since then.

TURNED OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER FIRST. Pulled Stove from wall, Removed 5 screws to remove back plate. Unplugged 2 spade electrical connections. Unpluged temp. sensor plug. Opened oven door and removed 2 screws holding element to top of oven. removed screw holding temp probe to element. Installed the elment in the reverse order starting with the temp probe. when finished with install, I tested the unit before covering the back. I used a oven temp tester to make sure that when the element went out that the temp probe was not damaged. Everything checked out fine and I finished installing the back cover and putting stove in place. Cleaned up area and JOB DONE.

Used a pliers to remove old bake element (2 nuts that none of our socket set would fit). Removed the back panel with screwdriver. Unattached bake element from wires. Then removed old element and put new element in, pulled new element wires through back and reattached to range. Screwed back in the oven with the pliers. Closed up the back panel with the screws.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Pulled out old burner; pushed in new burner. Piece of cake.

Removed the old element with a nut diver and put the new one in. Very simple instalation.

Amazingly the part arrived in just two days...

My T-Bone steaks are cooked just the way I like them again.

MikeS, Birdsboro, PA