JMP28BC1WH General Electric Range - Instructions

Watched video,and used it as guideline.Biggest problem was removing tape from old wires.

With a nut driver removed the four heating element sockets (four small sheet metal screws) and the seventeen sheet metal screws that secured the burn box, removed the sheet metal box and inserted the new one. Not all the holes lined up at first for the screws, but starting in front with the four that did fit, the sheet metal gradually lined itself up with all the other holes for a perfect fit.

When I got the part I removed the tin cover (two screws)on the back of the range. I removed the sensor by removing the two screws inside the oven and pulled out the sensor. taking the instructions advise, I checked the sensor with my ohm meter and although it read 1.1 ohms as compared with the recommended 1.09 ohms at room temperature in the instructions, went ahead and changed the unit. The connector did not fit my particular model so I spliced the wiring and using the two included wire nuts made the connection. I reinstalled the sensor, reattached the gas line, plugged it in and tried the oven before I put it back in place. The oven works great now and it was super easy.

I couldn't tell which one work best till I installed 2 units and I liked the other bracket for stability.The wired were too long and there is not a given way to strap them and keep them away from the heat source.

I pulled the range out, unplugged it, took the back off, unplugged the old terminal block and removed it. Attached the new block and ran the wires through to the back and plugged them in. Reattached the cover on the back of the range, plugged the range back in and pushed it back into place.

Ordered new parts. Received email with tracking number. Parts arrived as promised. Turned off power at breaker (!). Removed burners and pans. Lifted the lid of the range. Inspected the plugs and discovered one had come loose from bracket and was not in straight. Reset plug in bracket. While the lid was open, placed the drip bowl in opening and installed the burner and made sure the burner was laying properly in the drip bowl. Repeat for each. Perfect fit, If done properly, the small burners should lay down flat and not rock back and forth. I have seen complaints about rocking, and experienced some of it on one burner. Make sure the heating element is set in the plug well and it should work. A little patience may be required to get it just right. Everything lays flat and the stove looks new again. I have purchased from Part Select on other projects including a dryer rebuild and a new face plate for this range. Great products, reasonable prices, wonderful tutorial videos and good service.

I thought because the broiler was off that I could remove the element with not problem. As I was pulling the element out, it sparked, melting something in the back I couldn't see at the time. I immediately went to the breaker box and turned the power to the oven off. After I found the website online I was very gratified to see how easy it was to identify the element I needed and order it. I removed the old element. One of the wires from the element slipped through the hole in the back of the oven. To get at it I had to unscrew the four screws around the outside edge of the oven and pull the whole oven out. I had a table handy that I pulled up next to the oven and set it on without disconnecting the main wiring. After getting the oven out I removed the six or so screws on the coverplate and easily found the loose wire. I pushed the wire back through the hole in the back of the oven and made sure it would not fall back into the hole. I put the back plate on with all its screws; pushed the oven back into its hole and screwed the four screws in around the edge that hold the oven in. Then I attatched the broiler element to the spade connectors and screwed it back in place. I turned the breaker switch back on and tested it. It works.

unplugged burners replaced drip bowls plugged in burners

replaced

After getting the part from PartSelect, which only took 2 days to get here and was in great condition and matched perfectly. I went to the customers house, shut off the power to the oven, removed the 2 screws holding in the element, pulled the element out and removed the leads. Took the new element and put the leads on the contacts, pushed the wires and leads back into the hole and screwed in the 2 screws. Went outside and turned the breaker back on, went and turned the oven on to broil, waited a few seconds and it heated up perfectly, and the customer was real happy. She said it was great that she could bake again. Thank you guys for sending the right part in a timely manner and good condition, it keeps my customers happy and keeps me in business. Joe

Removed old socket, I had replaced with a aftermarket that really did not work well. When I recieved the terminal block kit from your company it was the proper kit. Service was better than expected, part and price was great and it took very little time ti install. Thank you.

After turning off power, I removed the two screws and pulled the element and wires out, removed the wires and then attached them to the new element and replaced the screws. However, this did NOT correct the problem. The broiler did not work until I tried several times turning it on and off. It then worked once but then did not. It worked once more after several tries. I then called a repairman suspecting the control board. He confirmed this and tested the old element which was in good working order after all. A new board has been ordered.

I tried to unplug old element without success. Called appliance repair man and he pulled part way out, took hold of place where plugged in with pliers and unplugged. While holding back part of plug he plugged in new element--$60.00 later.

The whole job took about 20 min. TURN POWER OFF AT CIRCUIT BREAKER!! Remove 4 screws from the convection cover, then 2 more holding in the broiler element, disconnect 2 wires, and connect to the new one. put the screws back in, the cover back on the convection element and you are done!

Just like the other responses described with two additional steps: 1) with a convection oven you have to remove the fan cover. It has four screws, the same size as the broiler element screws....but, get a piece of stiff cardboard the same width as the oven; put it all the way back, under the fan cover. There are holes in the oven bottom and your screws really want to roll into those holes and disappear; the cardboard will cover the holes. 2) as soon as you disconnect the element from the electrical wires....put a twist tie or other clamp on each wire as they want to fall back in behind the oven and you'll end up having to remove the build oven to get at the wires. The twist tie should keep them from falling out of reach.