JCSP38WK3WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Removed the oven door for easy acces to oven. Unscrewed (philips screwdriver) the screw holding temp sensor in place. Gently pulled the wiring until quick connector was located. Pushed down on locking level on quick connect while holding other end of wiring (so wiring would not fall back behind oven). Connected the new sensor and screwed back in place. Reinstalled oven door. Tested temperature settings by turning on oven and comparing with a separate oven thermometer.

Followed instructions and removed door. Loosened screws/bolts. Pulled the door apart. Removed the bracket that would hold the glass. Removed the broken glass and inserted the replacement glass. Re-assembled the door and reinstalled the door. Took all of 20 mins.

After turning the breaker off, using a 1/4 inch nut driver I removed all the clamp screws (5) holding the heating element in place. I then unplugged the element wire spades from the rear of oven and removed the old element. Installing the new one was simply going in reverse order. After plugging the new one in, I did however, use plyers to squeeze the connectors and make the connections tighter. It took a little more back work than I thought because I was leaning over most the time. All in all, I saved a hundred dollar bill in doing this 30 min job myself.

I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.

First, I got my husband and let him know that the part was in (really easy), then I sat back and watched as he pulled the oven from the wall, unplugged it and lifted the stove top (so far, I haven't broken a sweat)! I then peeped up under the top as he removed a scew from the element and then several screws from the back panel, trace the wire to the needed element, and reconnect the new element (haven't broken a nail yet)! He then secured the element back on its mount, let down the top and plugged the oven back in, checked for accuracy...mission accomplished! This was the easiest repair I've ever done!

Originally the burner had a hole burnt through it, which resulted in a hole being burnt through the bottom of a pan. I replaced the burner and it would not heat up. I removed the top control panel, after securing power to the stove outlet, turned the power back on checked both sides of the swith with a meter (with the switch on) and had no power on one side. I went to two stores that did not have the switch in stock and ended up ordering from this site at about half the price! It arrived a couple of days later. I marked the wire colors on the old switch, took off the knob, removed two phillips head screws, pulled out the old switch and installed the new one and I was back in business. The hardest part was getting the sheet metal / heat gaurd positioned right upon re-assembly. To remove the panel there are two screws in the rear (nut driver) and a screw on either side of the front under each corner that require a torx driver to remove.

After reviewing the potential causes for the error code, I decided I'd try to change out the temp sensor. Using the ohmeter, I saw the difference immediately between the old and new sensor. The sensor is accessed from the back of the stove, and must be slide out to gain access to the rear panel. Since the stove I have is a built in, removing the stove and the access panel was the hardest part of this repair. Resetting the glass control panel was also a bit tricky to calibrate the touch sensitive buttons. Good luck.

First dressed out with my hard hat, work gloves, dust mask then locked all the doors to prevent intruders from disturbing my concentration. During the installation took video for you tube broadcast and then invited friends and neighbors to witness the accomplishment! Made a sloppy soup to see how the drip pans worked. A+. Received quite a few back pats and atta boys. Most challenging aspect to this endeavor was unwrapping the packaging which was well done thank you. The whole experience left me refreshed and ready to take on the world! Thanks for asking!

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

The draw pictorial was not very clear. I orderd the two rear supports for the over storage draw, not sure they were correct.
They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support.
The draw is now operational..better then ever.

took of the back panel with a nut driver,pulled off the wires one at a time ,put them on the new switch in same position as the old switch.removed old switch with a screwdriver ,screwed in new switch,replaced back panel,put on switch knob

Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.

Pull the old one put in the new one ... took about 20 minutes

First I unplugged the stove, then lifted the stovetop, then took off the top panel on the back and disconnected the two wires. Then unscrewed the terminal block and put the new one in its place. Lowered the top inserted the eye and replaced the back panel. Works great!

This is the second time in a few months that I replaced this terminal block, so I made sure the contacts were clean and smooth. I also made sure the contacts were completely inserted in the block.