JCSP31BW4BB General Electric Range - Instructions

We had to buy washers and screws to hold the handle on.
Then all we did was undo the screws that were on the side of the door. place handle on door screw the new screws and washers that we had to buy and replace the side screws and it was fixed.

The only problem that I found was that the handle kit did not come with screws or some kind of attachment to hold the handle on the door. We had to buy extras at the hardware store for that.

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

I turned off the main power! Then unscrewed the back cover unhooked the wires and unscrewed the coil inside of the oven and pulled it out. My 10yr old son and I measured it and went online to order the part. I first did go into BestBuy and they didn't have the part (But they tried to sale me a new oven!) LOL Now who said a newly divorced mom couldn't fix her own oven! My Tech Support skills came in handy! Women Rock! LOL

After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son had spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.

Removed two screws and removed the oven elelent. One wire was not through the back of the stove. Ordered new element anyway. Slid stove out (slide-in model). Unplugged power. Removed two covers protecting wires on back of stove. Found wire for oven element. Had to cut and strip end of wire and use new blade clip. Crimped new clip to wire and inserted into oven through back of stove. Replaced covers. Plugged oven element to wires and tried out oven. WORKED ! Saved new oven element for next time. Difficulty encounted was lack of knowledge on where stove was screwed into counter-top and what size blade clip to buy. It always helps to have a dog 3" away just itching to lend a paw.

First unplugged it. Then removed everything in side for easy access. Took screws out 2 of them. Had to pull to removed elemnet . That took a while. Should have tried removing other screws or at less loosen them. It went in easy. And lift off we had red burner. hey..

Open door lift door off hinges lay door face down on flat surface remove 6 phillip head screws 3 on each side lift housing out of door case remove end knob phillip head screws installed one knob insert bar attch second knob and tighten screws lay housing back into casing attach screws doing one at a time on each side slide door back on to hinges and test operate, you are done!

Safety first: Turn range circuit breaker to off position. Turn a surface unit [burner] to the on position ,if no light exists power has been removed. Turn surface unit to off position. To remove bake unit. With a 1/4 socket driver remove two self tapping screws and gently pull out on the bake unit until you can access the slide on terninals. Careful lenth of wire is limited. Remove slide on terminals two each [2] . Install new bake unit in reverse order . Restore power

I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS
LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL,
OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER,
UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL
TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS
SCREW THE OTHER ENDS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR

Bent the tips so the phillament can fit inside the oven.

I unhooked the main power cord, unhooked the worn out block terminal cut the tape that was holding all the wires together. Removed the back panel and followed the wires unhooked the 2 wires and installed the new block terminal. Tied all the wires back, attached the back panel and plugged the power cord back into the outlet. i tested the burner to see if it was working. The burner is working great, instructions were easy to follow and my wife is happy. Thank you

I followed the instructions on the video, the only thing they left out is where the wires go through to the back of the stove being that there are sharp edges. A role of glass tape would have been handy to replace the old tape. Thanks for asking, I hope this helps someone else.

REMOVED 5 PHILLIPS SCREWS
REMOVED BROKEN RT CAP
INSTALLED NEW END CAP
REINSTALLED THE SCREWS
PROJECT COMPLETE

At first thought I was taking out some insulation but. "Clamp" just slid off and was very easy to install! Finding the right size socket took longer than the repair!

Fast shipping, Very easy to install I am a senior and had no problems works Great!!