JSP47SH1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Very simple. Remove one screw and carefully pull the sensor until you see the connection point. Remove the old one and snap the new one in and guide the wire back and reassemble the screw. Be sure to remove the oven door for easy access.

Disconnected breaker. Removed knobs, plastic retaining nuts mounted to each switch shaft. Removed four 1/4 inch hex head screws on front panel and two screws securing defective switch. Removed bad switch, and replaced with new part. Took photo of wiring before removing old part. Referred to photo to ensure correct wiring of new part. Reassembled front panel in reverse order of disassembly. Turned breaker to on, and tested new switch. All worked well.

Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary screw, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Removed panel to gain access, removed wires from switch from burner that was not operating and attached them to switch for burner that was working. Burner worked, problem identified. Replaced bad switch with new switch. Problem solved.

Just pulled out the old one and pushed in the new one. Very easy. I was afraid to run this self-cleaning oven until I installed the new gasket. It worked perfectly.

I unfastened the three 1/4" rear screws, then the two support screws on top. I pulled the old element out,( plenty of slack wire luckily). disconnected it from the bayonet-type connections, then attached the new element. I secured the new element using the 1/4" screws. Bingo!

Removed range from cabinets then approximately 6 sheet metal screws from the front of the range and two 1/4" sheet metal screws from the side to remove the front and top of the range. Lifted the cook top removed the two screws from the rotary switch and followed the directions included with switch to connect the wires. In reverse order reassembeled the range.
Quick & Easy

Turned off power to the oven, Removed the oven light housing, installed new housing, turned power on and walla.

This door required a lot more screws to be removed in order to remove the inside window assembly. I counted a total of 19 screws. That is why the estimated time is 30-60 minutes.

- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door.
- place door on work surface with the outside facing down.
- remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top.
- Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside.
- There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside.
- Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed.
- Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding.
- Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window.
- Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom)
- Set the new window in its place.
- Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane.
- Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door.
- Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom.
- Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door.
All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.

Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.

Pull range out of the "hole", and spin so that back of range is accessible. Remove cover over top "control area" on back of range. (Four screws that happen to be the same size as the magnetic socket that holds the interchangeable tip on a cordless screw gun. Simply remove this tip, and use the tip holder as a magnetic nut driver!). Remove the knob by pulling gently straight off. Remove black plastic retaining nut under where knob was. Inside are two small screws that hold the switch in place. Remove these screws with a magnetic screwdriver (If you drop these screws and lose them, you'll have a hard time finding them. Very small!!). Carefully follow enclosed instructions to move the wires from the old switch to the new switch. Put back together in reverse order.

1- opened oven door
2- unscrewed 2 screws underneath top with a socket wrench
3- unscrewed clips that held burner
4-used needle nose pliers to pull off wire clips off old burner
5- placed wires onto new burner
6- opened clips to make it easier to reinsert burner
7-reattached burner
8-Replaced top

The hardest part was unscrewing the 2 screws that held the top in place due to the position of the screws

Disconnect the power to the oven at the main breaker panel. Open the oven door to the first stop (not all the way open) and pull straight up to remove the oven door from the hinge. Using a 1/4" drive ratchet with 1/2" extension with 1/4" socket, remove the 1/4" sheetmetal screw holding the temperature probe at the center of the broiler mounting plate. Remove the two 1/4" screws holding the broiler mounting plate. Remove the two 1/4" screws holding the broiler element at the ceiling of the oven. Pull the broiler element out from the back of the oven and there should be two electrical connectors at the back of the broiler element. Pull the electrical connectors off of element. Replace the element and re-install in reverse order.

The first thing was to watch U-Tube . The replacement burner was being
replaced in a GE glass top range. Exter tools were required than depicted
in the U-Tube project. The project overall was not dificult for me however I was a general contracter for over 25 years