JCBP24WK1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

I knew I had a bad control board. Using the repair videos, replacing this part was very easy to do. While I was at it, I replaced my oven temperature sensor. as well, and even though it wasn't bad, I replaced my oven heating element so that I could get some more mileage out of my 14-year-old range. The issue: after completing my repair actions, my oven element still would not heat. I double-checked my connections and I discovered I hadn't ensured one of the wires on the control board was properly seated. This was one of the wires that go to the heating element. After ensuring proper connection, everything worked perfectly!

Replaced Electronic Control Board. Very easy to do with a nut driver and a screw driver to remove the old one. You may need a pair of needle nose pliers to remove Connector TB100 and TB101. Just squeeze the bottom of tabs to release connector. I also found that in the process of removing the Control Board label that it may rip in certain areas even while using a razor blade, so be prepared to purchase a craft paint brush and craft white paint to touch up the back of the label. It took 2 coats but looks like new..

The replacement Control Board works as advertised and I now have my oven working again. Save yourself the cost of a Service Company coming into your home just be prepared to do a bit of painting on the old label because it is really glued down and the new control board does not come with a new label.

Baking element : Pull range away from wall. Disconnect the power. Remove back center panel. Remove range door. Remove range racks. Disconnect push on terminals fron baking element. Remove two hex head screws. Remove baking element. Reassemble in reverse order..........Temperature sensor: with back panel removed, unclip the electrical connector. Remove one hex head screw. Remove temperature sensor. Install in reverse order.

Removed torx screws for door handle as well as torx screws for both hinges to separate the door halves to extract broken glass and to install new glass panel. Other reviews said not to remove hinge screws, however I had no problem reinstalling them.

Took back cover panel off (upper) and removed the 4 1/4 inch nut screws. Used nut driver and removed the 4 screws holding control panel in place. Put new panel in place and unhooked electrical connections and installed on new panel. Plugged stove back in and checked operation. All OK, so then put back cover on and everybody is happy.

couldn't get exact fit--out of production. mounting bracket at back of range for new element too small. took bracket off old element. cut down bracket on new element with tin snips, drilled holes thru it and old bracket and screwed together. at this point the new element was to long & touched oven door. removed spacers that came with new element (used old support to attached to roof of oven) and pried elements apart (which made element wider & shorter). working good.

The rusted burner bowls were a given, simple remove and replace. The bake element was bad, meaning the loop was open (cracked). The element replacement should have been easier if I had read all of the feed back given on the reviews. The number one thing I must stress is that the stove needs to be powered down. Either via breaker or unplugged. I found out the hard way and had sparks flying all over the place. I figured that with the oven in the off position the element had no power, boy was I wrong! Don't ever assume that the appliance was designed for safety! I pulled out the stove and unplugged it, after that the replacement was very easy. One 1/4" nut driver was all that was needed.

Cut 4 inch’s off the new terminal block wires then using my wire strippers stripped 1/2 inch off the ends , the old terminal block wires I stripped 1/2 inch at the ends using a wire nuts on both wires and electrical tape connected the terminal block to the stove plugged the new burner in and the burner worked 100%.

The only hard thing was contorting my old beat up body and joints long enuff to reconnect the 2 wires and oven heat sensor and put in 6 screws with a 1/4" nut driver. I did remover the oven door and that made it much easier for me.

I started with changing the bulb. I removed the small bracket that holds the glass cover over the bulb unscrewed the bulb and reversed to replace the bulb. To replace the control board I removed the top plate on the back of my stove took the small screw's out of the control panel and unplugged the wire's. Plugged the wire's into the right spots on the new control board and put it back together.

Unplugged Stove. Removed two screws. Unplugged two wires from heating element. Connected the two wires to new heating element. Replaced screws. That's all. 5 minute repair job.....(45 minutes to find right socket haha)

Ordered new heating element on Friday afternoon (3pm) and received part on Saturday at 1:00pm. Impressive! (standard shipping)

popped out the remainder of old lens, then pushed in new ones and slipped on plugs.

removed the two screws,then pulled element out and removed the wires,took out element that needed replacing, then connected new element . the repair job took no time at all. i was really impressed with how easy it was.

First I removed the screws and popped off the existing element. One of the wires "disappeared" back into the insulation, so I had to remove the back panel of the oven to access that wire and push it back through the opening. Then I attached the new element to the wires and replaced the finishing screws.