JCBP24WK1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

The repair was simple. All wires were color coded and the new part had the same color codes marked. Simply unplugged the wires from the bad part and plugged them into the new part a reinstalled the part to the back panel of the range.

First, I made sure the power was turned off at the breaker box so I didn't electrocute myself. Then, I took out the 2 screws that hold the element in place, then pulled it out and unplugged the wires.
I plugged the wires onto the new element, and replaced the screws. My daughter could have done this....

Took old racks out, slid new ones in....exact match at a huge savings from what GE wanted per rack.
Found the company through a Google search, have it bookmarked and will be back if I need something from them.

Two screws on the inside to free element. 4 screws in the back to remove a plate. unhooked element connectors. Remove element from inside replace with new one. Too Easy.

Followed instructions and removed door. Loosened screws/bolts. Pulled the door apart. Removed the bracket that would hold the glass. Removed the broken glass and inserted the replacement glass. Re-assembled the door and reinstalled the door. Took all of 20 mins.

Real happy on how fast the new part came.
1.Pulled oven away from wall and unplugged the unit & removed baking racks.
2.Removed the back wire cover behind the oven (3 screws).
3.Used the nutdriver to carefully remove the two holding screws inside the oven. Then I pulled the element towards me to expose the wires.
4. Using the pliers, I disconnected the element from the wires.
5. Using my son's help, I had him push the new element leads into the holes in the back while I connected the leads to the wires behind the oven.
6. Replace the two element retaining screws inside the oven.
7. Replaced the rear panel with the 3 screws.
8. Put the oven back in place and plugged it in. The oven worked perfectly!

I turned off the breaker for the oven. I used a electric drill with a 1/4 in socket to unscrew the two bolts inside the bottom of the oven. Then I pulled
out the heating element and slid off one connector and attached it to the new element. Then I slid off the other connector and attached it to the new element. Then I screwed the bolts back. I turned the breaker back on and it worked great.

Replaced temperature sensor in the oven first ($10 part, always start with least expensive possibility!), but that didn't solve the problem. 5-10 minute repair, not counting moving the range in and out of it's home between cabinets. Next replaced the control board ($90 part) which solved the overheating problem. 15 to 30 minute repair, don't be intimidated by all the wires. Remember to turn off power at the breaker (duh). Order the faceplate graphic ($37 part) because chances are the old one won't peel off cleanly (ours didn't, "I was really careful Honey!!) and the otherwise excellent PartSelect.com website doesn't suggest the part might be needed. Anyway, I saved a minimum of $80 plus Labor by doing it myself. I had the advantage of living about 100 miles from their warehouse and got NEXT DAY delivery from FedEx instead of 3-5 business days. Suggest you order before noon.

Repair: unscrewed the back panel- 2 screw and the sensor and bake element from the inside had 2 screws each. Just stuck them through their old hole from inside to the outside, pushed plug back together. Then screwed back into place, screwed back plate back on. Plugged stove in, turned on the oven and within 2 seconds the bake element was blood red and temp. was up to 350 in less then 10 min. Come to find out only needed the oven sensor -$10.00part but I already ordered the bake element so I went a head and replaced it - cost $50.00. Have a great oven again for less then $70.00repair.

Turn off circuit breaker.
Lockout (LOTO) circuit breaker.
Pull stove away from wall to access the rear of range.
Remove seven (7) screws from rear cover with nutdriver / screwdriver.
Carefully, disconnect stake-on terminals (wires) from element (may need to use needle nose pliers).
Open oven, remove racks.
Remove two (2) screws holding element in place with nutdriver.
Remove old broken element.
Insert new element. Fasten with screws previously removed. Close oven door. Go to rear of unit.
Reconnect wires to element. Make sure insulation seals around the element.
Inspect for any other damage; repair as may be required.
Replace cover panel and fasten with the seven screws previously removed.

Does not hurt to vacuum and clean the area stove, too.
Push stove back into position.
Remove LOTO and turn on circuit breaker (power)

Turn oven on to highest temp to bake off any contaminates on element. Turn OFF. Let cool. Replace racks a/r. Close oven door.

Invite the pretty girl next door to come over to bake something.... OK, this part is optional.

First I had to remove the oven ceiling screws bracing the broiler element. Second I removed the screws holding the connectors at the back of the oven before I could disconnect the two wires ( which were awkward for me to get to because I am 5'2" but was able to reach without removing the oven door).

I reconnected the two connectors and screwed the brace into the back of the oven. Then replaced the screws into the ceiling of the oven to hold the unit in place.

I was very pleased to have been able to do this project on my own and the broiler is working fine.

Replacing the sensor was a snap and not as involved as I feared. 1) open the oven door; 2) remove the one hex screw holding the old sensor to the back of the oven; 3) gently pull the sensor, pulling the wiring out to access the plastic wire connector (carefully guide the plastic wire connector through the opening); 4) loop a small piece of wire (stiff enough to form a hook) around the base of the wire connector to keep the wire from falling into the back wall of the oven; 5) unclip the connector and remove the bad sensor; 6) clip in the new sensor; 7) remove your catch wire; 8) thread the wiring back through the opening; 9)position the new sensor and secure with the hex screw; and 10) turn on the oven and prove to your wife you do know what you are doing!

Remove upper rear cover (4 hex screws), then I removed the 4 phillips screws that mount the control panel, I memorized the wire positions (easy since they are color coded) unplug the wires and remove the old control panel. The face plate of the control panel did not come off easily and the adhesive pulled off some of the white paint, leaving an unsightly clear edge. So I used white-out, and painted the areas where the finish had pulled off. It worked beautifully, and the color match is perfect. Then I reapplied the face plate, put the new control panel in position, connected wires, screwed screws, repositioned rear cover, screwed screws, plugged it in and it was done. The longest pare of the job was waiting for the white-out to dry.

First, I got my husband and let him know that the part was in (really easy), then I sat back and watched as he pulled the oven from the wall, unplugged it and lifted the stove top (so far, I haven't broken a sweat)! I then peeped up under the top as he removed a scew from the element and then several screws from the back panel, trace the wire to the needed element, and reconnect the new element (haven't broken a nail yet)! He then secured the element back on its mount, let down the top and plugged the oven back in, checked for accuracy...mission accomplished! This was the easiest repair I've ever done!

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.