JBS55BK1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then took the plate off the back of the range disconnected the two wires from the element and removed the old element. I then inserted the new element into the oven screwed the nuts back on and hooked the wires on the new element from the back put the plate back up on the back and screwed the nuts back on. It took around 15 minutes to do it all and this was the first time that I have ever done this. It was so easy.

Removed two screws from front of top, disconnected two modular plugs for elements, unscrewed ground wire. Lifted hinged top from stove. Unscrewed element retaining clips from 4 elements. Transferred elements to new radiant top. Placed top on hinge pins and plugged in elements and attached ground cable. Screwed front of top back. New top had only one screw in center, had to drill new hole for machine screw in flange. Turned elements on and had soup for the first time in a month.

well first i came here thewn i called got my part the next day by the way paying only regular postage. it took me more time to pull the stove out and find the sockets then to actually put the element in.that took a whole 3 minutes. thanks partselect you guys are the best and i will be back.

unplugged the range removed 4 screws from back top cover then took the knob off controller removed 2 screws from behind the knob removed 1 wirer at a time and placed it on the new controller in same order the wires came off put everything back to gather did not fix the problem .

First I removed the oven drawer. Verified that the support clips would rest correctly on rail, then review installation document with supports to locate alternate location for replacement supports. I did have to personally locate 2 fastners not provided with the supports ot complete installation. After installation, oven drawer opens and closes smoothly.

couldn't get exact fit--out of production. mounting bracket at back of range for new element too small. took bracket off old element. cut down bracket on new element with tin snips, drilled holes thru it and old bracket and screwed together. at this point the new element was to long & touched oven door. removed spacers that came with new element (used old support to attached to roof of oven) and pried elements apart (which made element wider & shorter). working good.

The repair was very easy and your video was extremely helpful. Especially regarding pulling the oven out and removing the back wiring cover to get to the spade terminals, rather than trying to do it all from inside the oven. Added bonus was that I got that pocket for the oven cleaned out like new! Eww! Pulling it out also gave me enough reach without having to remove the oven door (didn't realize you cold do that). Best part though was your mention that GE often DROPPED the zeros in their parts numbers. Couldn't locate the part on any website until yours noted this. so.. you got the sale. Went back to GE's website, located it and found your quality part was also less expensive! 11 minutes start to finish, quick shipping and works great! I'll be back! Thank you!

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Had to move the range out of its little cubby hole in the kitchen so that I could have access to the back of the range. This process probably took the longest. After that it was a piece of cake. Took about 15 minutes to complete the job. So easy, eve a caveman could do it.

Baking element : Pull range away from wall. Disconnect the power. Remove back center panel. Remove range door. Remove range racks. Disconnect push on terminals fron baking element. Remove two hex head screws. Remove baking element. Reassemble in reverse order..........Temperature sensor: with back panel removed, unclip the electrical connector. Remove one hex head screw. Remove temperature sensor. Install in reverse order.

Pulled the stove out from between the cabinets, used a blade screwdriver to pop the oven door retainers down and lifted the oven door out, removed the racks. used a 1/4'' nut driver to remove the 5 screws holding the broiler in place. From the time I unplugged the stove from the outlet until I plugged the stove back in was 15 min. I would suggest wearing gloves because the metal frame around the burner element has sharp edges.

I knew I had a bad control board. Using the repair videos, replacing this part was very easy to do. While I was at it, I replaced my oven temperature sensor. as well, and even though it wasn't bad, I replaced my oven heating element so that I could get some more mileage out of my 14-year-old range. The issue: after completing my repair actions, my oven element still would not heat. I double-checked my connections and I discovered I hadn't ensured one of the wires on the control board was properly seated. This was one of the wires that go to the heating element. After ensuring proper connection, everything worked perfectly!

Lots of jiggling until I found the screws to remove. After finally getting the top off the base there was the Instructions on a pamphlet taped to the bottom. The key tho get the top off is to remove the face and remove the proper screws( they are identifiable)unplug the electric plug 2 screws on the back sides and poof it is free!

The only hard thing was contorting my old beat up body and joints long enuff to reconnect the 2 wires and oven heat sensor and put in 6 screws with a 1/4" nut driver. I did remover the oven door and that made it much easier for me.

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.