JGBP26WEH5WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Remove rear cover. Remove old display. Remove one wire (and place on new board) at a time. Carefully remove faceplate from old board and place on new one. Close everything up and your done. Took 10-15 minutes.

I frist remove the screws that hold the element in place disconnected two wires.That didn't take long.Call aronud my area for part.They wanted 90.00 plus taxs.Went on line to find it much cheaper came in the mail very fast and put it in my self.Very easy and saved money too.It took less then 3 mins to put in.If I could do it you can too.Thank You,Bearice & Robert Reynolds P.S works great and no yelling at each other.Easy

well first off I repair commercial HVAC equipment for a major drug company so I think I've done it all.I thought it cant be much different than any burner assembly.I made it harder than it had to be,anyone can do this.I removed lots of unneccessary things.Let me help you only take out the drawer on bottom of stove.so I started on top and worked my way down.save time and open the stove to were the door stops then have faith and give a good yank.this will remove the door,dont be afraid it will go right back on those two hinges easy.now that this is out of the way remove the bottom plate that covers the burner assembly (2 screws)in back pull it out then you see the igniter.as I said before with drawer pulled out remove the 2 1/4"nuts screws holding it up then from bottom.Unplug this stove then remove the 2 places its plugged in to.after you remove this there are 2 screws that hold it into the igniter remove them .cut the wires with enough room to re use the plug ends.strip the wires and use the wire nuts that they provide then put back together with new wires on new igniter then.re attach.put everything back together in the reverse order you took them apart.plug in stove and see the igniter light up again and light stove.do not call repairman you can do this.save your money for you its bad enough you have to buy anything else.

First i removed the inside bottom of the oven where i could get to the actual glow plug igniter and removed the two screw that held the igniter in place. I than pulled the entire oven out allowing me to access the two wires connecting the igniter to the stove. I disconnected the wires and had to splice the wires as to be able to reach the appropriate connections. I reinstalled the igniter and upon testing the igniter worked properly. The entire process took me one hour.

Diagnosed the problem as igniter failure and called local parts outlet. They gave me the part number, but said they were out and directed me to another vendor. When the part came, it was the wrong shape but I tried it anyway. Result - the igniter glowed which allowed the gas to flow, but igniter, being the WRONG PART, didn't ignite the gas, allowing a dangerous build-up of gas.

I then went to PartSelect, looked up the part, saw it was the correct one, ordered it (arrived within 3 days) and, because I already had the pans and covers off the oven, it was a matter of minutes to install. Works like a charm and, though I usually like to buy locally, I'll check out PartSelect first next time!

Ignitor is easily reached by removing the bottom of the oven floor. Machine screws remove easily when appliance is relatively new, but from experience, they may give you some trouble when stove is 5+ years old! Our part came in a timely fashion, even when ordered over a holiday weekend . Replace ignitor just as the old one came out-one word to the wise...scrape off enough silver coating on the wires so that a good contact is insured before splicing with the wing-nut included. Having had many GE stoves, I notice that the factory-installed ignitors have a shorter and shorter life; I'll be keeping PartSelect's website handy!

i went for 3 months waiting on the electrician who never came then asked the plumber who else could fix it and he said my husband could it only needed to unscrew 4 tiny screws and unplug and cut and twist wires back the hardest part was reaching the bolts hooked to the ignighter the burner was in the way and is not as easy to remove as someone has said all in all it saved us 100 dollars and could have saved us months of burning food trying to cook on broil if i had only called the plumber first.ha ha

- removed the oven unit from the wall
- removed the aluminum backplate to expose the wiring
- Removed both glass wire nuts and disconnected the heating element\
- From the front, I removed both retainer screws and pulled the element wires through.
- In reverse order I reinsalled the new wires and screwed on the heating element.
-I reattached the electrical wiring and rear pane.
- I re-installed the unit into the wall.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...And then I installed
ignitor tightening the two screws and connected the two ignitor wires with the provided wire-nuts.
Mike Polcho

It was a simple repair removed the oven door, and the oven bottom plate. removed the screw that held the burner tube to gain access to the two screws that hold the igniter in place clipped the wires. put the new one on with butt end wire connectors instead of the wire nuts supplied. screwed the igniter back onto the burner tube put the burner tube back in place and secured it with the screw, replace oven bottom and door the whole repair took 20 minutes.

IThe schematics on the website were helpful for how everything goes together. I just followed the picture and then unscrewed all the screws that held the ignitor to the gas pipe. Have to pull out the gas pipe out first so you can get to the bolts, easy to do when you pull out the drawer and unscrew the hold down for the gas pipe.

No directions came with the part, and the length of the new wires weren't long enough nor did they have the attachment pieces that are needed to plug in the wires. However, helpful tips from others on the website told me that you have to cut the wires off the old part and screw the wires from the old to the new with the white plastic wire couplings. Worked like a charm!

It was a simple procedure, and I saved myself buying a new stove or paying someone else to fix it!

• Start by unplugging the unit from the wall.
• Then slide the unit out carefully without damaging the gas line.
• Next remove the lower drawer just under the stove. Pull all of the way out then lift slightly and continue pulling gently. The drawer should slide out with no need for tools.
• Tilt the range backwards towards the wall allowing enough room to access the back of the range where the gas control is.
• Remove the sheet metal under the stove. There should only be four hex head sheet metal screw holding it in place.
• Look at the gas control, and follow the white wires going up this should show you where the lower igniter for the oven is.
• Remove the igniter 1-2 screws
• Check to make sure you have the correct igniter. The upper and lower are the same. ****The label where my serial # is says that the unit only uses 5 amp igniters however the igniter I pulled out said 2-3 amp… fortunately Parts Select sent me the correct igniter without me knowing the difference when I ordered****
• Replace the old igniter with the new and wire it in per the instructions. **** I had to use butt connectors and part of the old wire because the replacement did not come with the correct connectors to attach to the gas control. It should be ok since it is only 5 amps and under****
• Reassemble the range and replace the drawer.
• Be careful when putting the range back in its place, not to tear the linoleum. I wet down the floor with glass cleaner to make it slick.

Good luck, I may have had it done in less than half an hour but I have a two and a half year old who must help daddy do it all. Takes longer but makes it more fun… Brad.

All I did was remove the old burner and put the other one on. Took less than a minute.

Following the recommendations of others I decided to attempt repairing the oven by myself. I unplugged the stove. I removed the oven door, the drawer, the drip pan from below the oven unit and the oven pan to access the igniter bracket. All screws were 1/4" hex head except the oven pan which were slotted. I disconnected the 2 wires. I removed the old igniter and cut the 2 wires close to the old igniter to allow extra length to splice to the new igniter. The new unit included 2 wire-nuts. It was simple to wire-nut the new wires to the old ones and install the new igniter. I reassembled the pans I had removed and the door. I plugged the stove back into the wall. The new igniter worked perfectly. My wife continues to tell me how great it is to have a working oven again and how much faster it seems to heat. I am thankful the oven didn't fail while we were cooking the Thanksgiving turkey the week before. I debated calling a repair technician or shopping for a new stove. The price of the new igniter and the description of the procedure convinced me to attempt a repair. I am very pleased with the results.

I removed the 2 screws that held the bottom oven plate in place. Then I removed the one screw holding the bottom burner in place in the front. I then reached into the rear area and unscrewed the last 2 screws securing the burner. I disconnected the igniter wires at their push-on connections and lifted the whole burner/igniter unit out. I relaced the igniter using the 2 attachment screws, and I cut the old igniter's wires with connectors and spliced them into the new igniter's wires, using the ceramic wire nuts that came with the new igniter. I reassembled the unit and it worked first time.