JB940AY1 General Electric Range - Instructions

I removed the unit from the wall,removed the back panel to access the wires to the sensor,cut the plug off of the new sensor and strip the wires back,used the wire nuts to attach the new sensor,put all back together and slid back into the wall and works excellent.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

It was very easy I removed two screws unpluged the sensor and wire spliced it together and also replaced the modual on the top of the stove and it was that easy.

No problem installing oven sensor, but I diagnose the problem wrong, I need to change(ERC-11)control p/n wb27k5140

Basically removed the screws holding the op on and removed the vent from back. Just "figured it out" and now it works. Wish I could be more helpful. Recommend moderate experience and confidence.

Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]

Slide the stove out from its current location so that you can unplug the stove from the electrical outlet. Open the oven door and remove the oven racks so you have easy access to the rear interior of stove. With a small socket wrench or nut driver remove the screws from the shield which is attached to the rear of the stove. This also covers the access to the screws holding the baking element in place. Once the shield is removed, you can now remove the 2 screws holding the element in place. Once this is done, you should now be able to pull the element out far enough to reveal where the electrical wires are attached to the element. Next, loosen the screws for both wires so that you can detach them from the element. Remove the old baking element from the stove. Re attach the wires to the new element and insert back into its original place and re attach element to rear of stove with the screws that were removed or with new screws provided with the new part. Make sure the feet(holds element up off stove bottom) of the baking element are faced down before attaching wires. Once the element is in place, you can now secure the shield in place with the 4 screws previously removed. Place the oven racks back in, plug the power chord back into the outlet and slide stove back into its original place.

The first thing was to watch U-Tube . The replacement burner was being
replaced in a GE glass top range. Exter tools were required than depicted
in the U-Tube project. The project overall was not dificult for me however I was a general contracter for over 25 years

1- opened oven door
2- unscrewed 2 screws underneath top with a socket wrench
3- unscrewed clips that held burner
4-used needle nose pliers to pull off wire clips off old burner
5- placed wires onto new burner
6- opened clips to make it easier to reinsert burner
7-reattached burner
8-Replaced top

The hardest part was unscrewing the 2 screws that held the top in place due to the position of the screws

A replacement Meat Probe did not correct the problem. Next replaced the Meat Probe Jack which corrected the problem. 1) To replace the Probe jack use 1/2" wrench to remove the nut and washer holding probe to a bracket on the top part of oven, just inside the oven door.
2) Unscrew two screws under the lip of the top burners, raise up the whole top, using a short stick to hold-up the top while you access the Probe Jack.
3) With your fingers gently follow 2-braded jack wires laying ontop of the insulation batting. The 2 wires run under the batting to the loose Jack. Carfully remove the old probe jack and install the new jack and secure with 1/2" wrench.
4. Pull stove out so you can get behind, unplug the stove and remove metal paneling covering back of control Panel. Locate the two braded wires running from front of oven over batting to a whole in rear oven wall, just below control panel. Replace new wires from the new meat probe jack, following the same route to back of stove. Carefully pull wires back and trace location to back of control panel. Unplug the old jack and replace the new wires, being careful not kink or fray the new wires. Replace back panel and plug in stove, lower and secure the 2 screws holding the burner top down. Check Probe on front of stove to make sure your getting a probe reading. Your done in a few minutes.

. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two plugs.
plugged in the new element and screwed it in place

I removed the oven door by unlocking the hinges and pulling out. Set on workbench (with towel/pad) and removed handle, four screws, then bottom and inside panel screws, then one nut to finally be able to get at the inner glass insert. Removed insulation and then took an extra hour to really clean all surfaces (middle glass was quite greasy due to inner glass being broken for a while. Reassembly wasn't bad, but took a while to figure out that the two thin 2" red spacers belonged around the two handle screws. This was tough to figure out as they come off when taking the handle off, but you can't see them, so didn't know where they came from! Anyway, if you're just a bit handy, you can do this job.

My cooktop is a stand alone unit mounted in a counter top not associated with an oven.
-Removed power to the cook top. Breaker off.
-Lifted the cook top straight up from the counter top and placed two 24 inch board strips to support it above the counter top. This was very easy by pushing up from the bottom of the cook top. This is a two person job preferably.
-Removed the six phillip screws below the glass surface edge. 3 in the front, three in the back.
-Remove knobs and remove the glass top by lifting straight up.
-Record the wire positions on the element on paper and remove the connections.
-The element is mounted on two spring loaded studs that have spring clips as a retainer. Remove the two clips by pulling straight up with a plier or needlenose.
-The replacement element did not come equipped with the two mounting ears that the original had. I removed the two ears from the defective element and installed them on the new element. Very easy. Two phillips screws. The elements have perferations in the correct areas to accommodate this.
-Placed the new element in position and reinstalled the spring clips.
-Install the wiring terminals in the correct positions.
-Reinstalled the glass surface and the six phillips screws. Reinstall the knobs.
-Lower the cook top back into its counter top position.
-Return power to the cook top.
-Installation complete. Very simple!