JGSP44WEY5WW General Electric Range - Instructions

I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip disconnected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.

Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!

ordered parts WB21X5301 oven sensor and 2 WB1X681 screws mine were bad highly recommended slid my stove out also a good time to clean all the years of junk behind it removed screws mine were bad unplug the connector slide the sensor cable through the hole and u are good after cleaning be hind stove slide back into spot reinstall power and code went away tested different temps with temp gauge and keypad and we were good

I replaced the igniter under the knob.

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

The replacement part not right size for the porcelain cone for gas. Had to unscrew 2 screws remove the cone, after unclicking gas wire. The gas spreader did not fit with the cone in place.

Shut of electric supply. Remove knobs and open top cover of cook top by removing two screws near each burner and replace switch.

I received a defective part from PartsSelect.com. After contacting their Customer Service, they promptly replaced the part for no charge at all. I am very, very pleased with PartsSelect.com and recommend them to all "home mechanics".

The bowl was replaced by removing two screws, removing the igniter wire, clip, and igniter. Reverse to re-assemble. I would recommend replacing the gasket at the same time.

The top is all glass so I took my time. There was about 12 screws and double sided tape. A lock washer holding the igniter on. It also gave me a chance to clean the hard to get to places. Your price was almost half of what a suppier here and getting it would have been 2 weeks compared to your 48 hours to my door. Thanks again

By myself

Followed the instructions

Real simple to do. Simply remove the two screws holding the bowl and disconnect the electric wire. Obviously first pull the power cord to prevent being shocked.
Re-attach the power cord and and screw the bowl tight. Plug in the power cord.

Took the frame off of the oven.
attached the outer door to the frame while keeping it flat.
Replaced the frame.

the broiler would light once in awhile and it appeared that the igniter was working. But it wouldn't let enough current through to open the gas valve. The nuts holding it on broke off but drilling them out and replacing with two sheet metal screws worked ok. Don't know how that will hold up to the heat though. The wiring was easy to connect ( wire nuts) but the lead wires from the stove are not that long so all the operation had to be done way in the back of the oven enclosure.

Easy, just remove two top screws, unplug the igniter wire and then do it in reverse. Your're done in less than 15min.