JBS360DM4BB General Electric Range - Instructions

After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son had spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.

I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS
LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL,
OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER,
UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL
TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS
SCREW THE OTHER ENDS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR

One wire at at time then used my razor blade to get front off stuck right back on

1. Unplug the range power cord from the outlet.
2. Moved range away from the wall and countertop.
3.Using a nut driver removed the 2 screws on each side of the removable panel on the back side of the control knobs and clock.
4. Using a phillips head screwdriver remove 2 screws on top side of the back side panel.
5. Using a nut driver remove 4 screws that secure the main control board in place.
6. Take photo of the wiring on the main control board if not color coded.
7. My control board, and the replacement board were both color coded with the color with the wire placement on the rear of the board.
8. Remove wires with needle nose pliers.
9. Using a hair dryer, heat the plastic control panel face plate that fits onto the front of the old control board.
10.With a putty knife carefully pry the face plate from the old control board.
11. Install the control board face plate onto the new control board.
12. Install the color coded wiring in place on the back side of the control board.
13. Replace the control board into the range, and install screws, and rear panel of the range.
14. Plug cord into outlet and test range for proper operation.

I used pliers to remove the hex bolts from the old burner element and pulled out the terminals by hand. I ordered my part and was slightly concerned because the part number was different (this due to my oven being so old I guess). After reading another repair story on this site, when I got my new part, I turned off the electricity to the range at the fuse box vs. unplugging the oven from the wall - because if I had pulled out the oven to access the plug, I would have had to re-caulk along the edges where it connects with my counter tops. I then slid the terminals into the female parts; this was a bit tricky because the female parts had receded behind the insulation in the hole in the back of the oven where they are located. I used small needle-nosed pliers to grab them and pull them forward enough to slide the new terminals in (by hand). I then put in the old hex bolts and used the pliers to tighten them. Flipped the fuse box switch and tried it out - worked great!

unplug it and plug the new one in

took out a couple of screws and replaced with new switch, plugged in switch wires. very easy

Slide the rang out to access the 240V plug & unplugging it. Removed the sheetmetal cover from the rear of the range to access the slip on wire plugs to prevent damaging the insulation. The insulation would be damaged if pulling them through the opening in the oven wall with the plugs attached to the element. Removed the racks from the oven. Unscrewed the retaining screws holding the element to the rear wall of the oven, lifted damaged element out and reversed the process for instillation. Perfect opportunity to clean underneath and behind the range.

THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME IN THE EMAIL ARE VERY GOOD. BE SURE TO TAKE A PICTURE OF THE WIRING.

Took back panel off unplugged sensor and replugged in and worked like a charm!Sears wanted $400 and was going to 'overrepair"Got the 60 dollar part on here. UPS shipped to wrong address and customer service refunded my shipping and was excellent! would definetly use again!thanks

standard procedure, very simple

Used nut driver and removed the 4 nuts holding the broiler. Pulled electrical wires of old broiler Received new unit and it was just as easy to replace. Thank you for assistance.

I followed the instructions on the video, the only thing they left out is where the wires go through to the back of the stove being that there are sharp edges. A role of glass tape would have been handy to replace the old tape. Thanks for asking, I hope this helps someone else.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

This was simple enough to repair for me, a relative novice. Just remember you need a nut driver to take the back panel off, take a photo of the existing board so you remember which wires go where, and you definitely need a hair dryer to heat up the sticker on the old board so you can remove it and put it on the new board.