JB256DM4WW General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Bobby from Trinity, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10266, WB31K10265
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
old wore out parts
just put in the new part
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- Customer:
- Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The light inside the oven had burned out
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Bar Harbor, ME
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10266
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burned/scorched corroded drip bowl
No brainer. No tools. Remove burner, lift out old drip bowl, drop in new one, plug in burner, voila! Done. 10 seconds.
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- Customer:
- Bet from Bothell, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10266, WB31K10265
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
the burner trays just needed replaced for an 85 year old senior citizen
Removed burner trays, pulled out heater unit, cleaned up inside of area around all four burners, slipped the burner trays back in and pushed the heater unit back into place.
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- Customer:
- Brenda L from Naples, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10265
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
rusted out drip pan
unplugged the element took the old pan out and put the new one in, plugged the element back in.
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- Customer:
- Vincent J Paola, from GREENWEL SPGS, LA
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Bad Line fault displayed on range clock
1. Unplug the range power cord from the outlet.
2. Moved range away from the wall and countertop.
3.Using a nut driver removed the 2 screws on each side of the removable panel on the back side of the control knobs and clock.
4. Using a phillips head screwdriver remove 2 screws on top side of the back side panel.
5. Using a nut driver remove 4 screws that secure the main control board in place.
6. Take photo of the wiring on the main control board if not color coded.
7. My control board, and the replacement board were both color coded with the color with the wire placement on the rear of the board.
8. Remove wires with needle nose pliers.
9. Using a hair dryer, heat the plastic control panel face plate that fits onto the front of the old control board.
10.With a putty knife carefully pry the face plate from the old control board.
11. Install the control board face plate onto the new control board.
12. Install the color coded wiring in place on the back side of the control board.
13. Replace the control board into the range, and install screws, and rear panel of the range.
14. Plug cord into outlet and test range for proper operation.
2. Moved range away from the wall and countertop.
3.Using a nut driver removed the 2 screws on each side of the removable panel on the back side of the control knobs and clock.
4. Using a phillips head screwdriver remove 2 screws on top side of the back side panel.
5. Using a nut driver remove 4 screws that secure the main control board in place.
6. Take photo of the wiring on the main control board if not color coded.
7. My control board, and the replacement board were both color coded with the color with the wire placement on the rear of the board.
8. Remove wires with needle nose pliers.
9. Using a hair dryer, heat the plastic control panel face plate that fits onto the front of the old control board.
10.With a putty knife carefully pry the face plate from the old control board.
11. Install the control board face plate onto the new control board.
12. Install the color coded wiring in place on the back side of the control board.
13. Replace the control board into the range, and install screws, and rear panel of the range.
14. Plug cord into outlet and test range for proper operation.
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- Customer:
- MICHAEL from MORROW, GA
- Parts Used:
- WB30X46987
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven would not heat up
I removed the rear lower cover. Disconnected the terminals from the heating element. Removed 2 screws from the heating element from inside the oven. Removed the heating element. Reinstalled everything in reverse order.
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- Customer:
- Angelo from Phoenix, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10266
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
drip ban needed replacing
removed heating element,removed old drip pan.added new drip pan,replaced heating element.Took less that 3 min.
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- Customer:
- Roy from Au Gres, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Could not adjust heat on burner.
Followed directions given by previous customers problems which we found on the internet.
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- Customer:
- Alex R from Randoff, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB23X5340
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
temperature sensor went
Took back panel off unplugged sensor and replugged in and worked like a charm!Sears wanted $400 and was going to 'overrepair"Got the 60 dollar part on here. UPS shipped to wrong address and customer service refunded my shipping and was excellent! would definetly use again!thanks
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- Customer:
- lucille from HAPPY CAMP, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
burner was not heating
unplug it and plug the new one in
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- Customer:
- Melvin from WEBSTER, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
THE FACE PLATE IS HARD TO GET OFF THE OLD CONTROL BOARD. USE A THIN KNIFE
THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME IN THE EMAIL ARE VERY GOOD. BE SURE TO TAKE A PICTURE OF THE WIRING.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from DIAMOND SPGS, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB30X46987
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
The lower,BAKE, element had burned in half almost causing a fire.
Slide the rang out to access the 240V plug & unplugging it. Removed the sheetmetal cover from the rear of the range to access the slip on wire plugs to prevent damaging the insulation. The insulation would be damaged if pulling them through the opening in the oven wall with the plugs attached to the element. Removed the racks from the oven. Unscrewed the retaining screws holding the element to the rear wall of the oven, lifted damaged element out and reversed the process for instillation. Perfect opportunity to clean underneath and behind the range.
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- Customer:
- Ruth from JACKSON, MO
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
control switch had stopped working, burner wouldn't work properly
took out a couple of screws and replaced with new switch, plugged in switch wires. very easy
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- Customer:
- Mary from ALOHA, OR
- Parts Used:
- WB30X46987
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
The bottome heater element of my oven burned out.
I used pliers to remove the hex bolts from the old burner element and pulled out the terminals by hand. I ordered my part and was slightly concerned because the part number was different (this due to my oven being so old I guess). After reading another repair story on this site, when I got my new part, I turned off the electricity to the range at the fuse box vs. unplugging the oven from the wall - because if I had pulled out the oven to access the plug, I would have had to re-caulk along the edges where it connects with my counter tops. I then slid the terminals into the female parts; this was a bit tricky because the female parts had receded behind the insulation in the hole in the back of the oven where they are located. I used small needle-nosed pliers to grab them and pull them forward enough to slide the new terminals in (by hand). I then put in the old hex bolts and used the pliers to tighten them. Flipped the fuse box switch and tried it out - worked great!
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