JBP35BK4WH General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Tim from LEAVENWORTH, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
F2 error; over heating, unknown reason
I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part
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- Customer:
- Frank from Glen Cove, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10029
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
switch went to high setting no matter what the setting was
took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..
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- Customer:
- Rose from BEND, OR
- Parts Used:
- WB56T10105
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Replace window pack assembly
This door required a lot more screws to be removed in order to remove the inside window assembly. I counted a total of 19 screws. That is why the estimated time is 30-60 minutes.
- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door.
- place door on work surface with the outside facing down.
- remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top.
- Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside.
- There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside.
- Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed.
- Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding.
- Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window.
- Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom)
- Set the new window in its place.
- Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane.
- Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door.
- Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom.
- Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door.
All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door.
- place door on work surface with the outside facing down.
- remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top.
- Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside.
- There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside.
- Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed.
- Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding.
- Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window.
- Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom)
- Set the new window in its place.
- Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane.
- Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door.
- Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom.
- Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door.
All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
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- Customer:
- Matthew from Cynthiana, KY
- Parts Used:
- WB44T10011
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Old coil burned out
After reading all the repair stories I knew that their wasn't any extra wire when the old element is removed. Well, even with that knowlage one of the wires came loose and slipped back in. Fortunately I was able to remove a panel in back and push it back through. I was afraid I would have to take off the whole back but instead there is a panel covering the wire running down the center of the oven. After removing 5 screws with the same nut driver as the one for the coils I had it done in minutes. I had no problem and I am NOT a 'do it yourselfer'. Oh, did I mention I ordered the part on Friday and received it on Saturday standard shipping? Pays to live the next state over from the place shipping it.
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- Customer:
- Mary from Bolton, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
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- Customer:
- Brian from DOVER, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10011
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from CEDARVILLE, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
When the burner was turned on it would be on high for any setting. In fact, the burner would be warm to touch even when the switch was in the off position.
I turned the power off at the circuit breaker, pulled the stove out from the wall, and removed the plug. I removed the top back panel, and took the burner switch out by unscrewing the 2 screws in the front of the panel. I used pliers to remove the wires one at a time from the bad switch and put them on the good switch. I replaced the new burner switch on the front panel and also, replaced the back panel. I put the plug back in the socket, pushed the stove against the wall, and turned the power on at the circuit breaker.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from LIBERTY HILL, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven in accurate temp too low.
Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.
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- Customer:
- David from Highlands, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
8" element shorted out
First replaced the 8" burner element-still did not work.
second: replaced the TERMINAL BLOCK KIT still did not work.
third : finally replaced switch: very easly-make sure you do not take off any of the wires on the back of the switch-take new switch and replace each wire on the same location than remove the old switch and replaced wired new on with the two screws.
second: replaced the TERMINAL BLOCK KIT still did not work.
third : finally replaced switch: very easly-make sure you do not take off any of the wires on the back of the switch-take new switch and replace each wire on the same location than remove the old switch and replaced wired new on with the two screws.
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- Customer:
- John H. from JACKSONVILLE, NC
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Front right burner would obtain the right heat setting.
Went to You Tube, found the appropriate segment. "Wa La" the problem was solved. Burner is working the way it is supposed to.
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- Customer:
- Lawrence from DECATUR, AL
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10029
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Red Light On
Red Light Off
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- Customer:
- Warren from Killeen, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB44T10009
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Broiler shorted out looked like a 4th of july sparkler.
Ordered on Tues got part on Thurs used a nut driver removed 2 screws holding element in top of oven,then removed the 3 screws holding the element and thermostat to rear of oven pull about 3 inches of slack, removed the blade plugs from element placed them on the new element and assembled it. Took abou 30Min. Easier if you remove the oven door!
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- Customer:
- James from Memphis, TN
- Parts Used:
- WB03T10203, WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
shaft of switch broke and old model oven had part number problems.
unplugged oven, pulled from wall, removed panel, removed switch, read directions, modified new switch, installed new switch, cleaned behind oven, and back in service.
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- Customer:
- Melvin J. from Waldport, OR
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
8 inch burner would not work on lower settings
1. Shut off power at breaker.
2. lift and prop up burner panel (top of stove)
3. removed three screws along top edge.
4. remove oven door (lifts off hinges easy)
5. remove 4 screws along upper oven opening
6. remove 2 screws up under front panel and pull out upper panel enough to access back of switches.
7. unplug wires (5) one at a time and plug onto new switch.
8. remove the two screws from front holding switch in place and remove old switch.
9. install the two screws attaching new switcj.
10 replace all screws in reverse order.
11. Re-install door.
12 close breaker
easy job any one with any mechanical no-how can do.
2. lift and prop up burner panel (top of stove)
3. removed three screws along top edge.
4. remove oven door (lifts off hinges easy)
5. remove 4 screws along upper oven opening
6. remove 2 screws up under front panel and pull out upper panel enough to access back of switches.
7. unplug wires (5) one at a time and plug onto new switch.
8. remove the two screws from front holding switch in place and remove old switch.
9. install the two screws attaching new switcj.
10 replace all screws in reverse order.
11. Re-install door.
12 close breaker
easy job any one with any mechanical no-how can do.
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- Customer:
- Stephen from BELLINGHAM, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466, WB08T10026, 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Shorted the control panel changing bulb without shutting off power dumbass
Replaced control panel after removing original control panel facing with heat gun and Wala
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