ECBP82SL1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

unplugged the range removed 4 screws from back top cover then took the knob off controller removed 2 screws from behind the knob removed 1 wirer at a time and placed it on the new controller in same order the wires came off put everything back to gather did not fix the problem .

Followed the directions!

Pull oven out away from the wall, unplugged from outlet, removed center cover by removing 5 sheet metal screws. disconnected thermostat sensor from control cable. Opened oven door and removed screw that holds thermostat sensor. Pulled thermostat sensor out replaced with new sensor. Plugged sensor in to control cable. Replace panel and screws. Then my wife made me clean the oven. I recommend making the repair when your wife is not home.

Took back cover panel off (upper) and removed the 4 1/4 inch nut screws. Used nut driver and removed the 4 screws holding control panel in place. Put new panel in place and unhooked electrical connections and installed on new panel. Plugged stove back in and checked operation. All OK, so then put back cover on and everybody is happy.

Replaced Electronic Control Board. Very easy to do with a nut driver and a screw driver to remove the old one. You may need a pair of needle nose pliers to remove Connector TB100 and TB101. Just squeeze the bottom of tabs to release connector. I also found that in the process of removing the Control Board label that it may rip in certain areas even while using a razor blade, so be prepared to purchase a craft paint brush and craft white paint to touch up the back of the label. It took 2 coats but looks like new..

The replacement Control Board works as advertised and I now have my oven working again. Save yourself the cost of a Service Company coming into your home just be prepared to do a bit of painting on the old label because it is really glued down and the new control board does not come with a new label.

I started with changing the bulb. I removed the small bracket that holds the glass cover over the bulb unscrewed the bulb and reversed to replace the bulb. To replace the control board I removed the top plate on the back of my stove took the small screw's out of the control panel and unplugged the wire's. Plugged the wire's into the right spots on the new control board and put it back together.

First I cut the circuit at the breaker, and then pulled the range from wall to access the access panel. This top panel was held with 4 screws and removable with a standard phillips head screwdriver.

I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.

The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.

popped out the remainder of old lens, then pushed in new ones and slipped on plugs.

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.

Easy

THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME IN THE EMAIL ARE VERY GOOD. BE SURE TO TAKE A PICTURE OF THE WIRING.

Remove two screws to loosen the ceramic top....prop top open and change part...the part was exactly the same...change wires from one to the other and transfer clamps.....1st grade craft class would have done it in half the time I did......you folks have your parts inventory and description application to a science.....God Bless

First of all, there are FOUR panes of glass on the oven door and two different sizes. Make sure you're ordering the right pane. We initially got the wrong one and had to return/reorder.

Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful when putting it back together.
When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.

For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.

We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.