JBP21BH2CT General Electric Range - Instructions

Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.

I turned the power off at the circuit breaker, pulled the stove out from the wall, and removed the plug. I removed the top back panel, and took the burner switch out by unscrewing the 2 screws in the front of the panel. I used pliers to remove the wires one at a time from the bad switch and put them on the good switch. I replaced the new burner switch on the front panel and also, replaced the back panel. I put the plug back in the socket, pushed the stove against the wall, and turned the power on at the circuit breaker.

First replaced the 8" burner element-still did not work.
second: replaced the TERMINAL BLOCK KIT still did not work.
third : finally replaced switch: very easly-make sure you do not take off any of the wires on the back of the switch-take new switch and replace each wire on the same location than remove the old switch and replaced wired new on with the two screws.

easy to do.

removed 2 1/4in. drill screws holding broiler element to oven removed 2 1/4in.drill screws holding broiler element to top of oven removed female spade connectors ffom old element and reversed assembley very easy

I unscrewed to old glide and replaced it then re attached the screw

After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove the swith assembley from the front panel.

I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)

Don't forget to unplug and/or turn off the main breaker!

1. Shut off power at breaker.
2. lift and prop up burner panel (top of stove)
3. removed three screws along top edge.
4. remove oven door (lifts off hinges easy)
5. remove 4 screws along upper oven opening
6. remove 2 screws up under front panel and pull out upper panel enough to access back of switches.
7. unplug wires (5) one at a time and plug onto new switch.
8. remove the two screws from front holding switch in place and remove old switch.
9. install the two screws attaching new switcj.
10 replace all screws in reverse order.
11. Re-install door.
12 close breaker
easy job any one with any mechanical no-how can do.

unplugged oven, pulled from wall, removed panel, removed switch, read directions, modified new switch, installed new switch, cleaned behind oven, and back in service.

I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.

I picked the least expensive and most likely issue with our oven that was not indicating a correct oven temperature. I am sure with a 15+ year appliance that the circuitry is on its way out but wanted to give this a try to avoid a new appliance purchase. Oven pre-heat setting takes much longer to finish with the age of the oven. However, after the new sensor the oven will maintain a more even temperature for the cycle.

Removal of the sensor from the inside of the oven is a bit awkward since it is located between the broiler elements at the back but a nut driver was the correct tool and worked fine. A bit stuck with the heating of the connection but pretty simple to replace. Must remove the back first to uncouple the connector. Simplest part of the repair.

At best a temporary fix for a an appliance this old.

The repair was very easy to do. Our oven was showing the F2 error code, which is associated with an over-temperature fault. Upon inspection, the oven was warm, but definitely not beyond the temperature threshold. I researched the issue and found this temperature sensor.
Swapping the sensor was extremely easy. You take off the back panel of the oven, unhook a single wiring harness, and undo some bolts inside the oven, which allows you to pull off the old sensor. Simply hook up the new sensor to the harness, pull everything back through, replace the fasteners, and you're good to go.

took drawer out removed broken guide. It had 1 screw removed it put the new guide in place put screw back in. Put drawer back in stove, It works fine.

This temperature sensor is very easy to replace. There are two screws inside the oven in the top middle of the back of the oven. Take these off. on the back of the stove there is a metal plate with 5 screws I believe. Take these off with a nut driver. Then you will see a white connector coming from the spot where you took the other screws off. Take the white connector apart and pull out the temperature sensor from the inside of the oven. Then put the new one in.