JHP56GN3AD General Electric Range - Instructions

First I switched the fuse to the oven had no power and then I removed the old element and wiped down the inside with a damp towel.
I then attached the new element and then used the screws to attach the element firmly into place.
I then restored power by switching the fuse back and then burned the element to remove and chemicals and then done

Cut power to oven from breaker box. Remove two retaining screws using a nutdriver at rear of oven. Slowly pull Bake Element from rear of range exposing connector clips. Disconnect at clips from oven wiring. Connect new Baking Element to wiring connectors. Push new baking element into rear of oven. Reconnect baking element using original screws with nutdriver at rear of oven. Turn on power to oven from breaker box. Job complete in 10-15 mins.

Took out the hexagon screws, used pliers to pull the connecting ends apart, slid in the new element in to the connecting slots, reattached to screws, turned on the oven to see if it would heat up and it did. It was really easy. I had waited for a week to get the part from my local Sears parts house. You sent it out and I had it in 3 days. They still don't have the part. Thanks so much.

I took out the two racks from inside the oven. I then took my cordless screw driver and unscrewed the two hex bolts from the back of the oven , where the element goes through the other side. Next I went to the back of the outside of the oven and unscrewed the two hex bolts that hold the gray guard on(It covers the wires). I unplugged the red and the yellow (might have been a white wire since it was dark back there). wires that connect to the element. I went to the front of the stove and took out the bad element. I took the new one and inserted it into the two holes from the old element. Plugged the red and yellow wires back up and replaced the guard. Lastly I screwed the element to the rear of the oven with the two hex bolts I used before.

This is how I did it--but I would strongly recommend you do step 4 first, and skip step 3! Remember, because 240V circuits have 2 "hot" wires, they may be "hot" (120V to ground) even when switched off!

1. Removed the mounting screws with a nut driver.
2. Pulled out the old element. BARE lug connectors on loose wires came out with it.
3. Watched an impressive show of sparks.
4. TURNED OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER.
5. Separated the connectors. Had to use pliers on the one I "fried".
6. Connected new element (connectors pushed together easily.
7. Reattached with screws
8. Turned breaker back on.

Super simple to repair, removed back cover on oven (after turning off breaker), removed old terminals from over, had to bend new element slightly close to terminals, installed new and replaced oven cover. Less than 15 minutes.

First I unplugged the stove. I then removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about four inches to expose the connection. I disconnected the two wires, removed the element and replaced it with the new one. I then reassembled the oven in reverse order. It was very simple.

Using a wrench, removed old element and simply installed new one - took less than 10 minutes and the oven was working again! Best part was how quickly the item reached us - ordered it on a Wednesday afternoon and had it by Friday afternoon, with no expedited shipping - Great Service!

First i turned off the main electricity for the oven. Then I removed the two screws with my socket wrench. Then i pulled the element out about 3 inches then disconnected the 2 wires that heated the element. I simply reversed the process to put in the new bake element and i was done.

As others have described, the removal of the old bake element is easy, just undo screws in the mount holding it to the inside wall of oven and pull out, then disconnect wires.

The first thing I faced unique is that some of the old element melted on the walls of my oven. After scrubbing extensively, it was obvious that the majority of the melted element was permanently fused with the oven wall--although it doesn't seem to have affected oven performance so far.

Next since my range was made in 1982, the replacement bake element didn't exactly fit my unit. Several adjustments had to be made. The size and fuctionality of the new bake element matched my oven, however the wire connections and the oven wall mounting bracket and the spacing of the two ends of the element as it went thru the oven wall were very different and required extensive modifications.

I used the old mounting bracket from the old melted element to attach the new element since my oven wall opening and mounting holes matched the old element mount--NOT the new element mount. This required removing the old mount from the old element by means of a vice, hacksaw and wirecutters. It was necessary to examine the old element mount very carefully before I hacksawed it off the old element as it must be reconfigured onto the new element. It will be bent up somewhat while removing---be careful.

Then I reattached the old mount on the new element. This required carefully bending the new element ends to receive the old mount as they were spread too far apart in the new element configuration. After much trial and error bending with several types of wirecutters the old mount was secured to the new element and installed into the oven.

Now a new problem appeared--the element ends now stuck too far into the back wall of the oven, making them dangerously close to touching the exterior of the rear of the oven and remember these are bare, hot electric connections! Much time in trial bendings and repositioning of the new element with the old mount finally resulted in a successful mounting with the old mount and the new element in a way that safely kept the bare wire connections within the rear oven walls.

A final problem was encountered when the new element came with slide-on wire connectors while my old element had screws and holes to connect the wires together. I found a drill bit the size of the required screws and drilled holes in the new element's wire slide-on connectors so that I could use the screw connector system of my old element to connect my new element's wires together. It all worked and the oven is functional.

This was really easy considering what it would have cost to have a repair person come and do it - not to mention the wait time. I had to hunt around a little bit to find the right socket, but once I had that, I unscrewed the bolts in the back and slide the element out. TIP: make sure you turn off the electricity!!!!!!!!! The wires were a little stuck, but the oven is 11 years old, so it's to be expected. One of the wires came off behind the oven, but I used needle nose pliers and fished around until I grabbed it. I detached the wires, attached the new ones, turned the electricity on and it's been baking Christmas cookies ever since. BTW - the part came in 3 days. I was sooo happy I didn't have to wait for a repair person. Thanks for all of you who posted your comments online. That was just the encouragement I needed to try it myself!

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

pulled stove out from wall about a foot ans disconnected the electricity cord. removed the 2 screws holding the element in place and pulled it out a bout 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. attached the new element & pushed it in place and tighrened the 2 screws. hooked up the electric power, moved stove back in place & it was done!

I read the "easy to repair" story after I ordered my part and I felt like I coud do this on my own. (Female not much experience in repairs) I shut off circuit breaker...proceeded to take out element...could not get it to easiler come off...so I made the mistake of cutting the wire because it looked like that's what I needed to do. WORD TO THE WISE...there are clamps that actually pull off the element..just need to pull a little. So my "easy" project was made more difficult because I didn't know this up front. Otherwise it would have been a breeze. I had to go to the hardware store and but new clamps and attach to the cut wire. Good news is my oven is now working and Parts.com was fast, cheaper than the GE parts place and great service.

The hardest part of repair was moving the oven from the cabnets to unplug and gain access to rear of oven. Remove rear cover panel unplug two spade connectors attached to the heating element. Open oven door and remove the two screws holding the heating element to back of oven. Pull heating element out. Then slide the new element in and assemble in reverse order.