JBP30AA1 General Electric Range - Instructions

The initial symptom involved the heating elements turning off and on rapidly once high temperatures were reached. After cycling power to the range this went away for a few weeks. When the symptom reappeared, it involved the oven-on light turning on and off, even when the oven control was in the off position. This persisted after a power-cycle so I decided to replace the control board. The actual repair was quite easy. The hardest part was removing the sheet with the button labels from the old unit (I ended up inserting a knife and twisting it to separate the adhesive, which is only around the edges) and fixing it to the new unit in the proper position. The latter would have been much easier if I had realized up front that there are handy guide ridges against which to align it! Like another person whose repair story I read, the existing wire colors were not all an exact match. However each connector's function was clearly labeled on the PCB of the old board, so I had no trouble matching them up (line voltage was red, not black, and broil was blue, not purple). The only other difficulty I encountered was that the old yellow bake wire had a plastic guard on the connector and this did not fit in the appropriate hole on the new unit. I merely pried the guard off with a small screwdriver and used the bare spade-connector, which fit in the hole nicely. There was a small amount of exposed wire left, so i wrapped it in electrical tape although I doubt that was necessary.

I removed the oven door by unlocking the hinges and pulling out. Set on workbench (with towel/pad) and removed handle, four screws, then bottom and inside panel screws, then one nut to finally be able to get at the inner glass insert. Removed insulation and then took an extra hour to really clean all surfaces (middle glass was quite greasy due to inner glass being broken for a while. Reassembly wasn't bad, but took a while to figure out that the two thin 2" red spacers belonged around the two handle screws. This was tough to figure out as they come off when taking the handle off, but you can't see them, so didn't know where they came from! Anyway, if you're just a bit handy, you can do this job.

1. Bought replacement part said to replace old switch.
2. Pulled old switch out.
3. Replacement part did not match. Would have to take entire switch panel apart to change to this part.
4. Multiple-part instructions very poor. For my switch unreadable.
5. Old part was "push to turn". New part was not.
6. Knob did not fit new switch. Old shaft was "D" shaped. New is square.
7. Gave up. Need to call repair shop.
8. Hope this helps.

First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.

New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!

I removed the back to gain access to the control board. Then I unplugged each wire on the old control and plugged it in on the new control - one at a time. Then removed the old control, removed the face from the old control and put it on the new one. Next I installed the new control and replaced the back. Job completed - oven works great.

Replace part an wires

Removed old surface burners and replaced them by plugging in the new surface burners. Now they work GREAT! Parts ordered and received with-in 3 business days. Fed EX delivered parts in good order very quickly. We recommend PartSelect.com

Pull the range out from the wall to access the rear of the unit. Turn off power to the range by unplugging from the wall or turning off the breaker.
Remove the large back cover from the oven portion of the range. Locate the two small wires and connector which is located between the two connections for the broiler heating element. Unplug the small connector.
Open the oven door and remove the screw that holds the temperature sensor in place between the broiler heating elements on the inside of the oven. Gently pull the sensor and the wire connector through the hole and discard.
Feed the new connector and wire through the hole from the inside of the oven. Attach the sensor to the oven wall with the screw.
Go to the back of the unit and make sure that no insulation has gotten into the oven space. Re-route the new wire being careful not to let it touch the contacts for the broiler heating element. Reconnect the wires to the connector and replace the back cover of the oven.
Plug in the range or turn on the circuit breaker. Slide the range back into place and re-level the unit. Test the oven to make sure the temperature is accurate and will maintain temperature.

Removed existing surface element and replaced with new element.

P.S.

Part Select service was excellent.

Pulled stove and unplugged electric cable. Unscrewed the top rear panel. Made a diagram of the wiring (with colors) to match with the new control. Unscrewed the 4 screws holding the control. Removed the plastic faceplate that was on old control and matched it on the new one (in the correct orientation so that it was not upside-down when placed on stove - so you can see the writing is right-side up from the front of the stove. I then screwed it in place and attached the wires following the diagram. I made sure that all the wiring was in the correct place and not pinched anywhere or touching other items. I the put the rear panel back in, plugged the electric cable back in and pushed the stove back in place slowly and made sure that the electric cable was flat on the floor so that the bottom drawer would not touch it when it was opened and closed.
The END ! Simple.

I just removed the range elements and old bowls, placed the new bowls into the range top, and inserted the heating elements. What surprised me was the quickness in filling the order. I had the new parts the next day! Great!

I unplugged the burner, lifted the old drip pan out, put new drip pan in, plugged burner in. The stove looks brand new and it took less than 2 minutes.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Only instructions I have has nothing to do with installation. But I'd like to suggest that you find a better shipping method. Placed my order on Feb. 7, received message later same day that it'd shipped. I didn't receive it until Feb. 16th -- very poor delivery service.