XB258RM4SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Ordered the part, it arrived and 5 minutes later it a complete installation

This one is simple. unscrew a portion of the door, install the spacer and screw back together. Worked well.

One wire at at time then used my razor blade to get front off stuck right back on

Watched video on you tube. Removing/reinstalling all of the screws/bolts took longer than the actual repair.. Took 23 minutes total from turning power off, repairing and turning back on. Super easy!

Remove old stained gasket and replaced with new. Only $57.00!

THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME IN THE EMAIL ARE VERY GOOD. BE SURE TO TAKE A PICTURE OF THE WIRING.

This was simple enough to repair for me, a relative novice. Just remember you need a nut driver to take the back panel off, take a photo of the existing board so you remember which wires go where, and you definitely need a hair dryer to heat up the sticker on the old board so you can remove it and put it on the new board.

Super easy repair! There are videos online if you have one type of oven, I had the other type (with the little silver plate right above the latch part). The trick is to remove the handle from the assembly itself before removing or placing it in the oven. 4 screws total and I recommend needle nose pliers to help remove the wires.

I began by turning off the breaker in the panel.
Slide the oven out into the open area.
Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel.
Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB
Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8.
Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB.
Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.

To Install.
Reverse steps above

Remove the old oven latch and replaced it with the new replacement part. It was very easy to remove and replace with just a few nuts removed

Mice took over trailer, after eliminating mice, and cleaning oven and range thoroughly, I noticed that the only place the mouse urine smell was still coming from was the vent tube. Noticed soiling around tube where it went through and into oven. I removed the center rack, layed some foil to catch any debris that may fall from the tube when it is removed. I removed old vent tube simply by removing the two nut screws on the roof of the oven. I had to pry it out a little bit. I then cut out and soiled insulation with razor knife, I inserted the new vent tube from the inside, and replace 1/4 nut screws and tighten.

Remove oven light lens cover, remove the bulb and replace it with a new one.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!

Once I opened up the back of the range, the sensor wires where there and burnt just like your info said. One nut to take off in the oven and the sensor came right out and the new one went right in. The oven works great, cooked the turkey today. The worst part of the repare was the cleaning behind and under the range, it hasn't moved since it was put in 6 years ago. Very pleased with PS.

Unplugged oven, turned off breaker, took cover off back of oven, removed old sensor by disconnecting in back of oven and undoing screw inside oven. Pulled old one out replaced with new took 15min. Cost me less than $20. Parts Select rocks! Even received part in two days with standard shipping!