JB645DK7WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Removed two screws and unplugged electrical connectors to the baking element. It was that easy.

I am a 69 year old woman. I watched the Repair Clinic YouTube Video before I started. I then pulled stove away from wall and unplugged it. Took off oven door and removed the top oven rack. Loosened and removed the screw holding the temperature sensor located inside at the top center back wall of the oven. Pulled the sensor through the opening until the plastic plug came through. Unplugged and removed it and plugged in the new sensor. Fished it back through the opening. Replaced the bracket to the back wall of the oven and tightened the screw. Replaced the oven rack and stove door. Plugged it back in and moved it back into place. I turned on the oven and let is heat for over 30 minutes and the internal temperature was correct with the setting.

The draw pictorial was not very clear. I orderd the two rear supports for the over storage draw, not sure they were correct.
They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support.
The draw is now operational..better then ever.

Unplug the range, remove the screws on the top third of the rear cover, remove two screws from the controller on the front side of the range, hold the rear cover open and pull the controller out of the back of the range, then unplug the two connectors from old controller. Plug the connectors into new controller, secure controller with screws on the front of the range, replace the screws on the rear cover, plug the range in.

My oven bake element melted one day. I had my husband replace it and for a short while it worked. Then it quit but then our broil element would not shut off. My husband said that it might be the heat sensor. We checked here in town and that element cost over $80. Since we have order from Parts Select before we decide to do so again. When we received the heat sensor my husband replaced it taking out the original heat sensor. This did not work as the broil element still would not turn off. I call the repair man and I found out that the initial melt down of the bake element also effected the main circut board that had to e replaced.

Removed back panel screws, removed back panel, removed screws of the control board, remove control board, heated glue and tore off plastic face plate, placed face plate on new control board, installed new control board, moved wires from old control board to new control board, test out oven, reinstalled back panel

After opening the Oven door, I removed the glass cover to view and locate the bulb, at the inside, top front of the Oven. Removed the burnt out bulb by pulling it in a forward motion towards the front of the Oven, slid the new bulb into place and the Oven is again functional.

First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.

First; turn off breaker to stove.
Second; remove two Phillips head screws that hold the top on, located in front, underneath, will have to open the oven door to see.
Third; prop the top up.
Four; disconnect wire clips of old element.
Five; plug in new wire clips of new element.
Six; unprop the top and realign the top.
Seven; replace the two Phillips head screws to secure the top, then close oven door.
Eight; turn breaker back on.
Done and Back in Action! You Can Do This!

Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary screw, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.

I viewed the video available through part-select. The most important thing I learned to do was to change one wire at a time instead of removing the old switch completely and then installing the new one. With 5 wires involved, it was really simple to install and not have to remember which wire went where. I was surprised how easy it was and it works wonderfully!

I pulled the stove out, unplugged it, screwed off the top back panel, held the control switches side by side and switched wires out one at a time. Put everything back together and pushed the stove back. Everything works like a charm. I’m a 60 year old female and that job took me 20 minutes start to finish-easy peasey.

Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, thats it...

Unplug stove.2 screws out ,lift top ,disconnect bad element, connect new element, put top down .2 screws in .plug stove back in...EASY PEASY

Pull oven away from the wall. Unplug from 220VAC outlet. Remove six (6) black screws from the upper back panel. Remove two (2) screws and washers from top of upper back panel. Rotate panel down and pull away from the back.

Remove burner control knob. Remove two (2) screws from burner control. Pull burner control backward through the open back. Disconnect upper and lower cable bundles.

Connect lower and upper cable bundles. Push control knob post through the front on the range. Install two (2) screws to hold the burner control. Install burner control knob and turn to the off position.

Reinstall upper back panel. Secure with two (2) silver screws with washers. Install six (6) black screws.

Plug in range 220VAC cable. Slide oven back into place.

Tested burner on high small burner, low small burner, high large burner, low large burner. All tested fine, burner cycled on/off cycles as expected.