L3B345GL2 General Electric Range - Instructions

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.

What I had to do was open the slot for the burner pan more as it would not fit properly in. So we snip the burner pan a little and now it fits great.

I installed the chrome drip bowl and plugged in the burner to make sure that it worked. Voila!! everything is now perfect and i have a happy renter. thank you so much for your fast delivery.

Pulled out heating elements, removed old drip bowls, replaced with new drip bowls, re-connected heating elements. Done! Looks like a new stove!

it was hard to figure out the instructions from A switch to B switch to my switch. The first switch was no good the second one was good. prayer book didn't hurt.thank

I flipped breaker off for electic and confirmed that power to the stove was off. I removed the 2 screws holding the control unit in place. Carefully removed all knobs and buttons and pryed the cover for the control unit off. I then removed old part, removed the wired and clipped wires to the new unit. Put cover back on - has some difficulty getting the panel back in place to line up the screws. But after a couple of attempts, was able to line up unit and put screws in place to secure. Replaced all knobs. Turn breaker back on and cooked lunch. Very easy job. Most difficult part was getting panel back in position. I would watch alignment more carefully before I removed in next time. Easy home repair for Women...not sure about my man?

the original path was from the right front control knob around the back of the range and left side of range,which i dismantaled to install the new wires to the right front burner. When I found them to be to short I had to also dismantal the right side so the wires could be routed there. The new wires worked fine but did take some extra time.

This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.

Good directions

The original controls were different for the small burners and the large burners. The replacement part fits all. Before removing wires, pay attention to writing on new and old control and replace 1 at a time. The hardest part was being sure to cut the knob stem to the correct length. Control works well.

Made my range look brand new. I originally had generic drip pans that rusted and look terrible. Hopefully these OEM ones last longer. Now the burners are level because they slot into the drip pan. Just pull the burners out with your hands and replace the pans. Very east.

It only took a few minutes to remove the old drip bowls and insert the new ones. No harder than cleaning! It's nice to cook things on my range now and not have drip bowls with scorched on food causing a fire hazard or setting off the smoke alarms.