ECBP82SK2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Pull oven out away from the wall, unplugged from outlet, removed center cover by removing 5 sheet metal screws. disconnected thermostat sensor from control cable. Opened oven door and removed screw that holds thermostat sensor. Pulled thermostat sensor out replaced with new sensor. Plugged sensor in to control cable. Replace panel and screws. Then my wife made me clean the oven. I recommend making the repair when your wife is not home.

I knew the lens (which also holds the light) was broken. I also ordered the light. I flipped the circuit breaker, raised the stove top and removed the 6 nut-head screws holding the cover plate. A nut driver would have been helpful, but I got by with a 6" crescent wrench. I removed the cover. I unplugged the two wires from the old light and plugged in the new one. I inserted the new lens and slipped the light over it. I flipped the circuit breaker on to make sure it worked. After flipping the circuit breaker off, I replaced the cover plates and the screws and lowered the stove top. I flipped the circuit breaker on. It worked!

Replaced Electronic Control Board. Very easy to do with a nut driver and a screw driver to remove the old one. You may need a pair of needle nose pliers to remove Connector TB100 and TB101. Just squeeze the bottom of tabs to release connector. I also found that in the process of removing the Control Board label that it may rip in certain areas even while using a razor blade, so be prepared to purchase a craft paint brush and craft white paint to touch up the back of the label. It took 2 coats but looks like new..

The replacement Control Board works as advertised and I now have my oven working again. Save yourself the cost of a Service Company coming into your home just be prepared to do a bit of painting on the old label because it is really glued down and the new control board does not come with a new label.

Killed braker first, removed four screws from back, then unplugged all the wiring, then removed four screw that hold the unit on stove, pealed off the face decal, put that on the new on and just reversed the take off press.

Took back cover panel off (upper) and removed the 4 1/4 inch nut screws. Used nut driver and removed the 4 screws holding control panel in place. Put new panel in place and unhooked electrical connections and installed on new panel. Plugged stove back in and checked operation. All OK, so then put back cover on and everybody is happy.

Replaced element control switches

Followed the directions!

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Pulled the stove out from between the cabinets, used a blade screwdriver to pop the oven door retainers down and lifted the oven door out, removed the racks. used a 1/4'' nut driver to remove the 5 screws holding the broiler in place. From the time I unplugged the stove from the outlet until I plugged the stove back in was 15 min. I would suggest wearing gloves because the metal frame around the burner element has sharp edges.

I knew I had a bad control board. Using the repair videos, replacing this part was very easy to do. While I was at it, I replaced my oven temperature sensor. as well, and even though it wasn't bad, I replaced my oven heating element so that I could get some more mileage out of my 14-year-old range. The issue: after completing my repair actions, my oven element still would not heat. I double-checked my connections and I discovered I hadn't ensured one of the wires on the control board was properly seated. This was one of the wires that go to the heating element. After ensuring proper connection, everything worked perfectly!

couldn't get exact fit--out of production. mounting bracket at back of range for new element too small. took bracket off old element. cut down bracket on new element with tin snips, drilled holes thru it and old bracket and screwed together. at this point the new element was to long & touched oven door. removed spacers that came with new element (used old support to attached to roof of oven) and pried elements apart (which made element wider & shorter). working good.

Would have helped it I knew the push on terminals of the bake element were visible and accessible to slide the terminals on from the back side of the stove in the beginning. There is not enough slack in the the terminal wires to connect them from the oven side, so you will have to open the back panel to retrieve a wire anyway. SO, CONNECT THE BAKE ELEMENT TO THE OVEN WALL FIRST ! Then, open the back panel of the stove and simply slide the terminals on the exposed slide terminals of the bake element.

The only hard thing was contorting my old beat up body and joints long enuff to reconnect the 2 wires and oven heat sensor and put in 6 screws with a 1/4" nut driver. I did remover the oven door and that made it much easier for me.

Ordered the bake element part from partselect.com. When the part arrived I removed the 2 6mm screws from the element, I used two clips to hold the wires in place so that they didn't receed back into the stove. I installed the bake element, installed the two scews ans was done. It took all of 10minutes.

Lily in Florida

First I cut the circuit at the breaker, and then pulled the range from wall to access the access panel. This top panel was held with 4 screws and removable with a standard phillips head screwdriver.

I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.

The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.