JBP78GS3 General Electric Range - Instructions

When the part arrived, I used the diagram provided by the website to see what really needed to be done. Keep in mind, if you're doing it correctly and disconnect the range from the power source, it's going to be dark inside the oven. Get a good flashlight or electric lantern. There are two screws holding the element in. Mine were 8MM hex-head screws, but be prepared for anything. I removed the with a socket attachment/adapter to my cordless drill/screwdriver, and the part came right out. Some insulation will come as well - don't panic. Installation is similar, just in reverse order. Pay attention to the feet on the element. Make certain they are down. Don't lean on them when you think you're finished and discover that you installed it upside down like someone I know, and have to pull it out to correct this.

I looked on Youtube for a how to video. It was accurate but the screws in my oven were NOT phillips head screws, they turned out to be sheet metal screws. I used pliers at first which was a PAIN but then I borrowed a socket wrench from the neighbor that was MUCH better!! I had wanted to do it myself to prove to my husband and son that I could but I ended up needing their help because the screws were so tight.... But we did the repair ourselves!!!

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Took off the inside ( this allowed me to clean the glass) panel. Removed the two end parts with a screw driver. Replace the parts and we were good to go.

Took Switch panel off range. Disconnected Infinite switch. Reinstalled infinite switch.. Replaced panel. Repair was very simple and self explainatory.
Knott County Housing Authority Maintenance Personnel

This is far to simple to even be a worthy story ,other than that the cause is a bit interesting. My wife had placed a plastic cutting board and some meat into the oven to get it away from my counter-cruising dog.
Later, without remembering the cutting board she turned the oven on to "broil." Hmmmm...

REPAIR:
Open oven door
Put in new rack
Close door

just replace the end cap with a new one all that was involue was to screw the new one in took about ten minutes and job done better than buying a new stove when the stove is still just like new. thank you for your on line help.

Removed 2 nuts holding the baking unit to the oven back, removed 2 nuts holding wires in place, installed new unit following procedure backwards. It takes longer to get the tools,take the oven door off, and take racks out than it does to remove and replace the baking unit.

Took off the door, took out the two screws in the back of the element. Then pulled the element forward, then removed the two wires. Then put it all back together with the new element.

Turned off power to the oven at the circuit breaker. Pulled the old heating element from the back lower wall of the oven. Noted the position of the wires (right terminal attached to the red wire, left to the black wire). Removed small bolts holding the element to the wires using pliers. Attached the new element using screw driver. New element came with screws, not bolts. Pushed the element back into place and restored power. Tested to make sure everything worked. Everything works and I ran an oven cleaning cycle. Noticed that indicator light above the temperature selctor is always on now even when oven is in the OFF position. Not sure if that's related to the change or to the oven cleaning cycle I ran. In any case, oven seems to work normally.

Piece of cake

Unplugged the range, took old elements out, put new ones in. Couldn't have been easier and for the total cost of about $60; I have a working oven again. A LOT cheaper than a new $600 range!!

I looked for a new terminal locally, but no one had s terminal that would fit a 40-year old range. I went on line to PartSelect and could not find my model range, so I looked through all the terminals listed on the website (about 500) but found only one that was close to mine. Mounting holes did not match, but it had 3 connectors with 220 capability, so I ordered it. I requested express shipping by UPS and thought I paid for the extra charge. When I got notification of shipment. I saw it was via ground. It went from Louisville to Jacksonville to Clearwater, FL. I ordered it on Thursday night and received it the following Tuesday night. Meanwhile, we had no stove to cook on. When the part came, it took two days to get the contractor back to our condo. He drilled new holes on the mounting box and jerry-rigged the wiring to make it fit. The range is now working, but I was disappointed in the delay in shipping which I agreed to express shipping.

This range is about 30 years old and I was thrilled to still be able to get the bake element, which burned out about a month ago. I was doing research to buy a new stove when a cousin, from out of town, called to say they were going to visit the following week. No time now to get a new one installed. "partselect.com" was the fastest way. THANK YOU!

First off, I want you to know I'm an obese 56-year female without tools. But, I knew where to borrow those.

I first shut the power off to the range. I then disconnected the 2 screws that hold the element and pulled it out to reveal the 2 screws which connected the wires. I unscrewed those and removed the bake element. I double checked the stove model and bake element part # at the GE website and ordered it from "Partselect.com". It came in about 3 days. I then reversed the order of the above and it was done.

Here are some challenges I encountered..
1) The oven door was in the way making it uncomfortabe to get to the back of the stove.
2) Those $#%& screws are so short I kept dropping them.
3) The wires in the back bend easily. Be careful.

That's about it. It was a pill but not a real problem. It sure beat buying a new range before I've decided on which one to buy.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.