JB258DM4BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Identified the switch that went bad. Order a new one and replaced it. The part came in a timely fashion and I am pleased with the result.

My Range had the issue I mentioned here. I put off the repairs for a long time, but Thanksgiving was around the corner and we needed a working oven. I had made a previous call to repair man and was quoted $75.00 for a service call to come and check the issue. Before calling a repair man back, I decided to pull the rear cover off the range to see how complicated it would be to repair. I removed the rear cover and found that everything was connected to this "Oven Electronic Control" except for the top elements (explaining why they still worked and the oven didn't). This made it seem that this part would surely have to be causing the issue. I did a search on Google and found this company and the part that I needed. The cost of the part was less than the service call for a repair man would have been. I ordered the part and paid for next day delivery. The part shipped on Monday and arrived on Tuesday. For the installation, I had to identify the wiring because the connector layout was a little different. When I looked closely I found that the terminals were numbered the same as the old part. I replaced wire for wire, put it all back together and tried it out. It worked like a champ. I was thrilled to have been able to find the part with schematics on this web site and it was the correct part and fixed the problem. I was also thrilled that I saved a couple hundred dollars fixing it myself and that it was so easy. I would highly recommend this company for the ease of use of finding the part on their web site, the reasonable price and their prompt processing and delivery.

Took out the old control module and removed the sticker and reattached sticker to new part and installed the plugs, put the screws back in and it started working, thankyou so much.

Directtions were by diagram only, no written instructions. Drawing was small and difficult to follow but the repair itself was easy.

Purchased the board installed it and saved about 130 dollars.

Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.

I miss diagnosed the situation at first. When the top element only heated up I thought the control was the problem. Wrong. Apparently both elements heat up during initial start up. It turned out that the bottom element was not working so it needed to be replaced rather then the control. Now both are replaced and the oven is now back to original status. Entire repair cost about $80. I saved over $100 by attempting this myself. Easy fix. Obviously I am not a pro. My local hardware store had a generic heating element that worked just fine and only cost $22. Two screws to repair after removing the back panel. Remember to pull the plug before you begin and after the repair put all panels back on before plugging back in. Pizza anyone?

Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!

Slide out burner elements. Remove old burner bowls. Insert new burner bowls and reinstall burner elements.

This burner is on a Monarch wood and electric range. The 8in burner shorted out and fried the switch. I had to remove the cover over the switch's. I marked each lead with paper and stapled the paper to the leads. When the switch came in I just had to reattach the leads.

Thanks to Partselect's instructions the repair went very easy. When I was done and the wife finished cleaning the sides of the stove and the floor behind it, I was surprised after I plugged the stove back in and noticed the clock was only 18 minutes off! Awesome company to deal with, Thanks!

Hubby did the job..all went well except for the arthritis & having to bend pull stove out from wall ,pushing back..ha-ha.

Repair was very easy - less than a few minutes - just had to screw in 2 screws to the new drawer supports.

Really easy fix. Unplug oven. With a 5/16 nut driver take the 5 screws out of the center long tin cover and remove. Unplug little white temperature sensor plug located between broil heating element. Open oven door and remove one screw holding temp. sensor using same nut driver and simply pull out old sensor. Install new sensor. It's that easy. No more f2 been working like a champ!!!

Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.