JM250DT1BB General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Sunny from Salt Lake City, UT
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10011, WB31T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
stained drip bowls
unplugged burners replaced drip bowls plugged in burners
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- Customer:
- don from Dallas, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10093
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
replacing racks
took the old ones out and put the new ones in their slots. No issues
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- Customer:
- Randy from Ellenboro, NC
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The 8" burner switch heated burner to high Temp
Went online looked up model no and found Part No. and ordered it couple of days It came in mail Cut power to oven took knob off two screws back panel. wired new switch like the old one replced thwe switch and two screws and panel connected the power tried new switch it worked great.
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- Customer:
- GAIL from STREAMWOOD, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10011, WB31T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Needed new drip pans
Not really a repair. But would like to say, I like the price and shipping was super fast. Thanks.
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- Customer:
- Felipe from Donna, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The burner combusted burning the the burner switch
Disconnected the appliacnce from the power source. Using screwdriver, removed the back panel and disconnected every wire that are connected to the switch. Pulled out the front nob and removed the switch. Then install the new switch by screwing it back in. Place all wires back and back panel. Connect and finish.
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- Customer:
- Constance L from Woodhull, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10011, WB31T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Disgusting looking burner drip bowls.
Just had to change out the drip bowls, easy. But, I wanted to comment on the quick delivery on the new bowls. I was impressed. Thank you.
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- Customer:
- Leslie N from Carson City, NV
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10011, WB31T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
none
Took the old pans out and put the new ones in. Simple as pie
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- Customer:
- David from Jericho, VT
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Burner was always on high when on.
Disconnected the power. Removed hex head screws from top and lower rear panel. I think there were 8 all together. Pull the knob of the burner control, removed two screws that held the switch in place. Moved the wires one at a time to the new switch, re-assembled. Burner worked properly. Very easy to find the right part from this web-site, and the instructions from others like this were helpful. Easy fix!
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- Customer:
- Curt from Maple Grove, MN
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Burner light would not shut off
Checked each burner switch by disconnecting the light indicator wire. Located the switch, replaced the switch and the indicator light operated as it should.
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- Customer:
- daniel from norwalk, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10006, WB31T10011, WB31T10010, WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
burner switch needed replacing
replaced wire for wire
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- Customer:
- Fred from De Leon, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Front and back burners not getting hot
Followed the video supplied with the email on the parts order form. Biggest problem was pulling the range out from the wall, the repairs went without a hitch. The PartsSelect video was a great help showing the short cut to getting the new wires in by using the old wires as a pull wire.
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- Customer:
- John from Belle Plaine, MN
- Parts Used:
- WB64K5051
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Burn box had rusted through under one burner.
With a nut driver removed the four heating element sockets (four small sheet metal screws) and the seventeen sheet metal screws that secured the burn box, removed the sheet metal box and inserted the new one. Not all the holes lined up at first for the screws, but starting in front with the four that did fit, the sheet metal gradually lined itself up with all the other holes for a perfect fit.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Winter Garden, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burner would not turn off
The burner light did not turn off, and the rear burner stayed hot. Unplugged unit and removed switch, which turned off the "burner lit" lamp. Thus I figured it was the switch that was causing the problem. Ordered the switch (I think around $18 and plugged it in. I think there were 4 screws to get the panel off, and then another 2 to get the switch off. When I plugged the unit back in (it had been unplugged while I waited for the part to ship) it beeped for a while. I had to turn the breaker on and off, and that solved the beeping problem.
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- Customer:
- Mary from Leon, KS
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Burner wouldnt heat
Watched video,and used it as guideline.Biggest problem was removing tape from old wires.
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- Customer:
- Les from Coal Creek, CO
- Parts Used:
- WB21X5301
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
The range kept giving an F2 alarm
When I got the part I removed the tin cover (two screws)on the back of the range. I removed the sensor by removing the two screws inside the oven and pulled out the sensor. taking the instructions advise, I checked the sensor with my ohm meter and although it read 1.1 ohms as compared with the recommended 1.09 ohms at room temperature in the instructions, went ahead and changed the unit. The connector did not fit my particular model so I spliced the wiring and using the two included wire nuts made the connection. I reinstalled the sensor, reattached the gas line, plugged it in and tried the oven before I put it back in place. The oven works great now and it was super easy.
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