JSS86SP7SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Watched video

First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches. I removed the sensor and disconnected the connector.

Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.

I picked the least expensive and most likely issue with our oven that was not indicating a correct oven temperature. I am sure with a 15+ year appliance that the circuitry is on its way out but wanted to give this a try to avoid a new appliance purchase. Oven pre-heat setting takes much longer to finish with the age of the oven. However, after the new sensor the oven will maintain a more even temperature for the cycle.

Removal of the sensor from the inside of the oven is a bit awkward since it is located between the broiler elements at the back but a nut driver was the correct tool and worked fine. A bit stuck with the heating of the connection but pretty simple to replace. Must remove the back first to uncouple the connector. Simplest part of the repair.

At best a temporary fix for a an appliance this old.

The repair was very easy to do. Our oven was showing the F2 error code, which is associated with an over-temperature fault. Upon inspection, the oven was warm, but definitely not beyond the temperature threshold. I researched the issue and found this temperature sensor.
Swapping the sensor was extremely easy. You take off the back panel of the oven, unhook a single wiring harness, and undo some bolts inside the oven, which allows you to pull off the old sensor. Simply hook up the new sensor to the harness, pull everything back through, replace the fasteners, and you're good to go.

Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!

YouTube to review, had 1 person hold stove top for ease. Simple repair

Performed repair using a video for reference.

I checked various sites on the net and decided that the temperature sensor was the problem. The GE price for the replacement part was about $105, most of the other sites offered the sensor in the $70 range. PartSelect $12.95 When the part arrived, I removed a small self taping screw, pulled the high temperature wire connector into the oven space, disconnected the quick disconnect fitting, attached the new temperature sensor, pushed the connecting wire into its hole, replaced the screw and that was it. I probably saved about $200 in parts and labor over what a local repairman would have charged. Oh yes!! I first disconnected the power at the breaker box. Very important.

Ordered the part. Received the box damaged and did not realize the part was damaged until our son came all the way from Columbus Ohio to install it. We ordered another part which came in a timely manner. Even though I reported the problem and told them that we are not very computer literate they still would not accept that the part was damaged until we sent a picture. Our son came back from Columbus to install the new part which took about an hour. He took pictures which I was then able to send. They then asked for a serial number. I had already sent all the numbers from the part but that is when they said they wanted the serial number from the stove. We are elderly and getting that required me getting on my hands and knees to get it near the floor. Luckily I was able to get up. After multiple emails I now have to send the part back. Good luck to anyone working with this company. I will be waiting for them to reimburse me for the defective part.

The burner remained on high regardless of the position of the control. 1. Unplug the range. 2. From the back of the range control panel, remove the top-plate that covers the controls. (4 screws) 3. Remove the two screws that hold the control knob in place. 4. Move ONE WIRE AT A TIME from the old control knob to the new gripping the connector only (do NOT pull the wire). 5. Remount the controller and reassemble the back cover with four screws. 6. reconnect the range and test.

Unscrewed the stove top and replaced the element.

Sensor is in rear and on top ov oven. What could be a 10" job took 45". My problem was the oven door was diffinately in the way. Also I wear bifocals which makes me tilt head to see nuts. I felt like a contortionist. HINT: remove door and give yourself some room to work.

Disconnected power supply, removed control panel mounting screws with 1/4 inch nut driver, removed small phillips screws under control panel, pulled off control knob, then removed two phillips screws holding control switch to control panel. Verified replacement switch was identical to malfunctioning switch. Removed wires attached to old switch, one at a time, and attached to new switch as each removed. Wires don’t appear to be labeled or color coded so be sure to relocate wires one at a time. Reassembly was reverse of disassembly.

Unsrewed the glass cover