JB258DM3BB General Electric Range - Instructions

THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME IN THE EMAIL ARE VERY GOOD. BE SURE TO TAKE A PICTURE OF THE WIRING.

took out a couple of screws and replaced with new switch, plugged in switch wires. very easy

This one is simple. unscrew a portion of the door, install the spacer and screw back together. Worked well.

Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.

Followed directions given by previous customers problems which we found on the internet.

This was simple enough to repair for me, a relative novice. Just remember you need a nut driver to take the back panel off, take a photo of the existing board so you remember which wires go where, and you definitely need a hair dryer to heat up the sticker on the old board so you can remove it and put it on the new board.

Removed two screws holding the housing in place and loosened two more on the back it order to free it. Switch was held i place with two screws, removed those. Transfered wires one by one on the new switch, which was identical OEM part, and replaced the screws. VERY simple.

Top front sloping sheet metal panel with all controls and plastic end caps has to come off. Need 2 people, one to hold it while other replaces switch. Problem was getting screw holes on bottom ends lined up and cuts from sheet metal edges. Ten minutes to get it apart, 40 to get it back together. New switch works fine.

Mice took over trailer, after eliminating mice, and cleaning oven and range thoroughly, I noticed that the only place the mouse urine smell was still coming from was the vent tube. Noticed soiling around tube where it went through and into oven. I removed the center rack, layed some foil to catch any debris that may fall from the tube when it is removed. I removed old vent tube simply by removing the two nut screws on the roof of the oven. I had to pry it out a little bit. I then cut out and soiled insulation with razor knife, I inserted the new vent tube from the inside, and replace 1/4 nut screws and tighten.

Remove oven light lens cover, remove the bulb and replace it with a new one.

Thank goodness for PartSelect.com
When we moved into our home the microwave and electric range are obsolete appliances and were missing parts. PartSelect.com has pictures of parts on one inch grid pattern so I was able to select the hard to find parts that would fit perfectly and they did.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!

replaced oven clock control ref maintenance manual, 4 screws and 8 wires. plugged in new control and op checks good.

Once I opened up the back of the range, the sensor wires where there and burnt just like your info said. One nut to take off in the oven and the sensor came right out and the new one went right in. The oven works great, cooked the turkey today. The worst part of the repare was the cleaning behind and under the range, it hasn't moved since it was put in 6 years ago. Very pleased with PS.

Took out the original drip pans and set in replacements which I ordered in black enamel.
Slipped right in and look great as the oven door glass is also black. Look like they came with the range.