JS645EL8ES General Electric Range - Instructions

First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.

First; turn off breaker to stove.
Second; remove two Phillips head screws that hold the top on, located in front, underneath, will have to open the oven door to see.
Third; prop the top up.
Four; disconnect wire clips of old element.
Five; plug in new wire clips of new element.
Six; unprop the top and realign the top.
Seven; replace the two Phillips head screws to secure the top, then close oven door.
Eight; turn breaker back on.
Done and Back in Action! You Can Do This!

Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary screw, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.

I pulled the stove out, unplugged it, screwed off the top back panel, held the control switches side by side and switched wires out one at a time. Put everything back together and pushed the stove back. Everything works like a charm. I’m a 60 year old female and that job took me 20 minutes start to finish-easy peasey.

Pull oven away from the wall. Unplug from 220VAC outlet. Remove six (6) black screws from the upper back panel. Remove two (2) screws and washers from top of upper back panel. Rotate panel down and pull away from the back.

Remove burner control knob. Remove two (2) screws from burner control. Pull burner control backward through the open back. Disconnect upper and lower cable bundles.

Connect lower and upper cable bundles. Push control knob post through the front on the range. Install two (2) screws to hold the burner control. Install burner control knob and turn to the off position.

Reinstall upper back panel. Secure with two (2) silver screws with washers. Install six (6) black screws.

Plug in range 220VAC cable. Slide oven back into place.

Tested burner on high small burner, low small burner, high large burner, low large burner. All tested fine, burner cycled on/off cycles as expected.

Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, thats it...

Unplug stove.2 screws out ,lift top ,disconnect bad element, connect new element, put top down .2 screws in .plug stove back in...EASY PEASY

I changed out the sensor and still same problem. Change out Thermosat and still same problem.
I call the help number and emailed the help but I got nothing but have to many calls because of the virus situation.
Still need help.
I’m an electrician and I don’t want to call a service technician and pay that big bill.
Can anyone there help me out, if so please call.
Ike Stanton
678-525-6644

Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.

Remove cover on back remove two screws for switch and take picture of wire placement install new switch put all back together
U. Plug stove first . Was really easy to do now have room do a other burner

I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part

Replaced infinity switch: unplugged stove;. Removed upper back panel (4 small screws using socket wrench. Appropriate size box wrench would be fine, too); pulled off burner control dial. Removed 2 small screws with phillips screwdriver. From back of stove noted position of infinity switch . Replaced wires, 1 at a time, onto new switch. Pushed new switch
into same position as old switch. Secured with the previously removed screws. Replaced the control dial. Replaced upper back panel of stove.

This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the connector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.

This door required a lot more screws to be removed in order to remove the inside window assembly. I counted a total of 19 screws. That is why the estimated time is 30-60 minutes.

- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door.
- place door on work surface with the outside facing down.
- remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top.
- Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside.
- There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside.
- Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed.
- Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding.
- Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window.
- Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom)
- Set the new window in its place.
- Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane.
- Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door.
- Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom.
- Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door.
All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.

I looked everywhere for this part before I came upo9n this site. I found the part from their very well done website. Even had a picture so you could compare to what you have. It was an easy repair. I had been quoted over $200 to repair by a local repair place. Instead it was around $25 and 15 minutes to repair. This is the right site for any part you may need. I have a magnetic card they sent so in the future, if I need anything (and I will !) I can go right to the right place . Thanks also for a very prompt delivery.