JBP22*P1 General Electric Range - Instructions

The bake element in my 17 year old GE free standing electric range became defective. This element has 2 terminals -- black (240V) and white (neutral). While removing the element from the range, a 2nd black wire was pulled out of the back of the oven. This wire had a bare terminal connection and apparently had been loose behind the oven shell for all these 17 years. Inspection of this wire showed it carried 115V. I wrapped this wire with electrical tape and reinserted it into the insulation behind the oven shell.

No. 1 thing I did is I unplugged power supply to oven, second- unscrewed two screws that was holding cover plate and removed cover plate with a set of pliers, pulled element out and unscrewed two screw with power wires and installed new element, tightened screws and re-installed cover plate, tested oven turning on oven and in a few seconds element got hot, job done!

First I turned off the breaker to the oven,
then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I placed the new element in the oven, reconnected the wiring and replaced the two screws in the mounting bracket. I reset the breaker and turned the oven on to about 450 degrees for 30 minutes to burn off the new smell of the element. This job was very easy and I saved about $100 from paying a service to do it.

With great ease. Only thing I would have appreciated was knowing the size ofvthevrequired socket wrench. Otherwise it was easy and fun as the instructions were crystal clear.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I replaced it with the new element that took only two days to arrive and that was without paying extra express shipping fees. It couldn't have been easier. I didn't even wait for my husband to come home and install it. I had an oven-baked meal ready when he got home. I was very satisfied.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

Turned off circuit. Unscrewed old element. Connected new element and screwed it in. Worked like a charm. It shipped very quickly. Could not be more satisfied; total repair: $30 and prevented me from buying a new oven; satisfaction: priceless.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

Element was easy to remove two screws and unplug it. New element didn't have the same prongs and brace was different. Added ends to plug with screws supplied drilled new holes in oven back for brace. Works fine for a repair by a 65 year old woman.

.....then tested for voltage, had it. Ordered the element through partselect.com and it came in the mail THE NEXT DAY! No kidding! Installed it and the wife is back to her good cooking. All is well, thanks partselect.com. John R., Pompano Beach, Florida

Unscrewed the two screws that held it in place; disconnected the old; connected the new; replaced the screws. DONE.

Simple replacement. Price for replacement was excellent. Cheaper than any replacement I priced locally and arrived the day after I ordered.


Thanks!

Remove the 2 screws, pull out the backing element. remove the 2 screws and replace the element....pay attention to what wire go where.

Actually you are right, I removed the two screw pulled the element out , disconnected the two wires holding the old element and put the new one on. I spent more time finding out whether or not it would be safe to work on it, being on my own for the first time and always had someone do it for me. I was told as long as the oven was not on it was safe and so I went to work. I was also very impressed at the short time it took to get the part. Three days!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!