ZFGB21HZSS General Electric Range - Instructions

remove old burner, put new in place

Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.

took a little more effort than the video show to remove old module and replace new. Works fine now.

Very very simple repair!!!!! Works great!!

I have no clue what wire goes where because there is no thing to refer to or instructions of any kind . I have not been able to install the part.

I was disappointed with this parts recommendation..neither part solved the problem, a first with partselect. The Range Oven sensor change out was easy and straight forward once the back lower panel was removed. The SPARK MODULE was time consuming..the module is located and accessible only by removing the range top. Having gas burners requires unscrewing all the burners before tipping up the top and removing it, then removing the guard over the Module is next..it's a project, sure wish it worked when I was done!..turned out to be the oven glow bar....

Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.

Removed oven convection fan cover for more room to remove/replace lower oven bottom. Deflector is attached underneath oven bottom and you will need new self tapping sheet metal screws to replace old ones. My deflector actually had hole melted in it from glowbar igniter directly underneath it. Glowbar remains white hot until selected oven temp is reached...poorly designed.

Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of your company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

My brother-in-law is a 15 year refrigeration technician who I called and described the problem to. He told me to put an "amp clamp" on the line side of the wires (black) that go to the starting controls on the side of the compressor. The motor has a label that has a number on it (LRA) that he used to determine the max amps it would pull. In this case, if the motor pulled 10 amps, then the motor was bad and I'd have to buy a new refrigerator. It was pulling less then 9 amps so he thought to buy a new overload, since the capacitor checked out (measured by multi-meter). As soon as the part came, I removed the back panel (4 screws removed by nut driver), removed the clip that holds the overload/capacitor assembly, detached the two wires from it, and removed the capacitor from the overload. I swapped in the new overload and repeated the above process in reverse. The only difficulty was that the new part was different in that the plug-in locations for the two wires were in different locations, and not marked. I had to disassemble the old part to figure out how it worked so I could deduce how the new one plugged in. Once that was solved, it was a quick fix. This was not a repair that just anyone could do; it required someone with a lot of experience to help me, and I am an engineer.

changed sensors did not repair problem,replaced damper with mechanical damper fixed problem.

followed part select video instructions

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!

luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.