PFE28RSHSS General Electric Range - Instructions

The repair did not go exactly the way it was described in the YouTube video, but basically it was similar. After unplugging the power cord, emptying the freezer, removing the shelves and the ice reservoir, I removed the ice maker assembly by unscrewing a Philips head screw and unplugging the power connector. The connector had little retaining tabs on each side that I pried open with a straight blade screwdriver. Then the ice maker lifted right out. Next I removed one screw holding the auger motor assembly, unplugged the power connector, and lifted out the assembly. This where things got difficult. After flailing around a bit, I removed the panel on the back wall of the freezer below the evaporator fan assembly, exposing the evaporator coil. I saw that the fan assembly was attached with two screws at the top and two screws at the bottom. The top screws were easily removed, but when I removed the bottom screws, which were situated in very tight quarters, I DROPPED BOTH SCREWS DOWN BEHIND THE EVAPORATOR COIL. Be prepared with a magnetic nutdriver so this doesn't happen to you. I could not retrieve the lost screws, but fortunately it appears that the top screws hold the assembly securely enough. The assembly was loose, but it was still attached by a power cord that I could not disconnect. I removed the tracks on the side walls for the ice bucket, and then I could maneuver the fan motor assembly just enough that I could reach over the top of it, grab and pull off the old fan blade, and slide the new fan blade onto the shaft. Reassembly was straightforward, replacing each part (except two lost screws) in reverse order to disassembly. After getting everything put back in and plugging in the power cord, I was amazed at how quiet it ran.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

Unplugged ref.,turnned water off at wall and drained, removed back cover on lower part of ref. then removed screw holding water valve,unplugged both wires from unit,pulled the 3 water lines off,1 I had to cut, would not release,got new water valve,push 3 water lines in place,attached the 2 wires in place and screwed unit back on ref.and replaced back cover on ref. Then I got a hair dryer and thawed all ice that had built up behind and under ice maker in freezer,cleaned that mess up,turned water back on plugged in ref. All good ,repaired problem,old water valve was bad.

Shut water behind the refrigerator, unplugged the unit. Unscrewed the back tin panel and simply unscrewed the brace scew for the Double Outlet Water Valve. Disconnected the hoss - inspected the hosed for wear. Next detached the hoses and power source to the unit... reconnected both hoses & power source, plug the refrigator back in and inspected for any water leaks. Simple!

First I checked that the wire and sparker was working by switching the wires on top of the range. I did this by pulling out the sparker switching it from the back working burner on the same side. The same burner would not light so I knew it was not the sparker.

Then watch a bunch of videos and found this gal to be the most helpful on how to take apart my exact stove.
Go here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRGfuhUzEaY

I did not take everything apart like she did. I ordered the spark module and just replaced it following her method to take off the back, switch the wires to the new module, then put everything back together again.

All burners have been working perfectly since the fix.

Pulled ice box away from wall. Took lower cardboard cover off. Shut water line off. Got my volt meter and checked the current going from the wall to the plug in at the inverter (input side), and I had the required 115 volts. Then I unplugged the connection going to the compressor (not the plug at the compressor which you cannot see until you unbolt the inverter) but the output connection side that goes to compressor. I checked the voltage and had about 13 volts not the required 115 volts. Therefore, I came to the conclusion that the inverter was bad. I ordered one from Partselect and they shipped it right away. I installed it and the ice box is back up to running order.

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

Show installation!

remove the front plate. use screwdriver to pry the cover off from the bottom of the cover, remove the wiring from the front cover.remove the 4 screws and pull out the shute. remove three screws from the solonide and replace . very easy fix. save yourself $100.00 labor.

Of course being a women to say I repair my refrigirator is very self gratifying specially when share with other womens like me divorce,having to do on their own, great site, very simple explain on the video with words I could understand, no surprices right to the penny. I save a lot of money, thank you so much, i recomend the site to anybody.

Just fallow video shows that it 123 !

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

Order parts and installed - no tools needed - completed repairs less than 1 minute

I removed the two range grills. Then I removed the two chipped burner caps, and replaced them with the new burner caps. I then replaced the two range grills.

Unplug the range from its wall socket to avoid electric shock. The various range parts that support a pot or frypan are easily lifted off their perches, exposing the small white igniter. The only moderately difficult aspect is wiggling the igniter out of its retainer. The electric wire leading into it then can be pulled out and fed into the new igniter with a push. Replace igniter in its retainer, then replace the range parts you removed to expose the igniter and plug the range back into the wall socket. Piece of cake.