JCBP84DPBB General Electric Range - Instructions

Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, thats it...

My dryer knob broke on the timer cycle switch so I ordered a new one along with a new dryer knob which didn't fix the problem, then I ordered the start switch and all I had to do was remove the back of the dryer where all the knobs are located and remove the start switch by turning the start switch to remove it, replace it with the new one by turning it till it clicks in just like when you removed it, put knob back on the front. However that didn't fix my dryer either so I ordered the thermal fuse and switched it out and that was what started the dryer back up. It is located on the back all the way to the bottom where the electrical cord is. Remove the cover and locate the fuse. Use a pair of pliers to pop it out and push the new one back in.

I changed out the sensor and still same problem. Change out Thermosat and still same problem.
I call the help number and emailed the help but I got nothing but have to many calls because of the virus situation.
Still need help.
I’m an electrician and I don’t want to call a service technician and pay that big bill.
Can anyone there help me out, if so please call.
Ike Stanton
678-525-6644

First unplug dryer to prevent electrical shock. To remove the front of the dryer, open the door in top left and top right corners is a machine screw. They can be removed with a Phillips screw driver. Lift the top slightly and let front fall forward about 6 inches, lift slightly. Two wire will be connected to the switch in the door. remove the wires and squeeze the tabs on both sides of the switch and push it out. Push new switch in to replace old switch and reassemble.

After replacing the dual element and still having a problem with the range, I started troubleshooting the switch. Fortunately, our range has 2 dual burners, and the switches are the same, so I was able to move the switch and see the problem follow the switch (also, using a VOM, I could tell there was a short in the switch).
Since I'd already replaced the element, I only had to work on the controls, which are very easy to access.
I carefully documented all the connections (took a couple of pictures as well), and swapping out the switch took almost no time.
Lesson learned - follow the manufacturer's requirement to use only cookware with a flat bottom. This tea kettle only sat flat around the outside edge. That caused both the element and switch to blow. The "hot cooktop" light stayed on constantly, even after the element was replaced.

I went to You tube sight to see how I can remove front of washer so I could inspect inside and see if the problem was visible. A butter knife easily released the tabs that hold the front of washer on. My wife in the mean time found a you tube video that showed the same problem and I ordered the part right away. It showed just two screws and a plug that had to be removed. I always buy my parts from part-select because the quality and speedy delivery and tracking is great! This was an easy fix!

This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the connector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.

Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.

Replacement handle easily snapped into dryer door. No skill or tool needed,.

once the part arrived, it was a perfect fit and just snapped on! DONE!

I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part

took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..

Initially replaced the switch on the range--a simple job--pull the wires one by one and place them on the new switch. This did not resolve the problem, which meant that it was the burner, not the switch. I left the new switch in place and ordered a new burner. This, too, was simple, but involved creating a detailed drawing of the switch connectors rather than photos, which, because of the crossing of similarly colored wires, might have been confusing. The only hitch was that the burner is attached to the top by indented clips that fit into pegs at numbered locations on the burner. The clips were very difficult to open and situate, but once done (and this step was the only one where a second person was required) the top was closed and screwed back in place (two screws) and it worked perfectly.

Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.

UNPLUG the dryer. I removed the top panel by removing the two screws at the top of the dryer door. There are some hooks toward the back of the top panel, so you'll need to slide it to the left to get it off. The front panel needs to be removed by removing two screws just inside the top left and right corners. Lift and set it aside. I didn't disconnect the door wiring, but you can if you need to do so. I just spun the front panel to the left and out of the way. With the drum exposed, I confirmed the belt was broken. I replaced the belt, then the front panel and top panel. While I was inside the dryer, I did a through cleaning with the vacuum to get all the lint.

The video on the site is easy to understand and a snap to follow.