JBP90WW2 General Electric Range - Instructions

1.Move range in position to access electrical wall disconnect and unplug. 2.Remove two 5/16 screws (located under top fwd. edge of cook top, Lift entire top assy up from front and prop with appropriate device(short 2x4 about18 inches long works well) 3.Remove two small phillips screws securing two metallic keeper devices holding burner assy in place. This should allow burner assy to be removed.4.Disconnect electrical spade connectors from ceramic terminal blocks on old burner assy.CAUTION: [SPADE CONNECTORS FIT TIGHTLY DO NOT PULL ON WIRES USE PRYING FORCE WITH FLAT SCREWDRIVER DIRECTLY ON TERMINAL].Remove connectors one at a time re-connecting to same location on new assy. Reassemble in reverse order.

Just like your example said/turn the power off to the oven/remove the screws that hold the element in place and then I pulled th element out a little ways and disconnected the wires/reconnecting took a little longer only because it was hard to see/but I connected the two wires and put the screws back in and it worked. Saved me a lot of money/my husband wanted to get a new double oven

First I turned the Breaker off for the Oven. I removed the two screws that hold the element/cover plate. I pulled the element out to get access to wires attached to element & removed screws holding wires to element. I reversed the process to put back together.

The repair was fairly easy. Removed the 2 screws that hold the plate to the oven and then pulled out the element and loosen up the screws that connect it. Installed the new element and re-attached the element to the plate and secured the plate back to the oven. This site was very easy to use and very helpful and I will use it again if I need another part.

Shut off the power at the circuit breaker, removed the two nuts holding the element to the oven, unscrewed the two screws connected to the wire leads, removed the bad element and reversed the process to replace with the new one.

Removed 4 screw nuts and replaced with new baking element using same 4 screw nuts. Real easy job.

First I turned the power off to the oven/stove at the breaker box in the basement. Then I took the back plate off. Then I removed the two screws holding the wires onto the damaged element. Then I removed the two screws holding the element to the inside rear of the oven. Then I pulled the old element out and replaced it with the new element. I replaced the two screws that hold the element to the inside of the oven. Then I replaced the wires on the element where it protruded at the back of the oven. I put the back plate back on, slide the oven back in place and turned the power back on at the breaker and everything worked.

Unplugged stove, removed front door, carefully removed two screws holding the cover plate of the element. Gently pulled the element out about 3-4 inches removed the two screw attaching the electrical wires to the element , making sure the wires did not pull back into the stove. Removed old element, attached new element to the electrical wires with the new screws received with the new element. Carefully pushed the wires and element back into place making sure the insulation was also in place. Re-attached the cover plate with the two screws I had removed. Plugged the stove back in and tested the element. Replaced the front door .... job complete!

Just wanted to add that the part came in two days, super mailing time, thanks!!

Removed two socket head screws form inside oven rear wall. Pulled element out and disconnected two screws attaching wiring. Replaced with new.

TURN OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER before doing anything even if oven is not turned on! If I hadn't checked voltage with tester before starting I would have made a shocking discovery.
1) unscrewed shield cover to get get at the element screws.
2) unscrewed element screws and removed old element - pulling connecting wires out about 3 inches
3)attached new element to connecting wires (2 screws)
4) pushed new element into place and reattached element connector plate to wall of oven
5) reattached shield cover to wall of oven

My husband first turned the main breaker off to the stove. Pulled the stove away from wall, took off the back plate, unhooked the element and out the new one in!!

Pull out Range and unplug from wall receptacle. Open Range door and remove 2 hex head screws with pliers. Screws located at top inside of range door opening. They hold the burner top in place. Slowly lift front of top burner section up and at same time slightly lifting back of burner section since it rests on 2 pivots. Prop front of burner section open, tilted back, with a piece of 2X4 maybe 2 1/2 ft. long. Make sure the 2X4 is located at the front/middle of range [resting on insulation] and at front middle of burner top to keep it opened firmly and balanced. You have about 5 or 6 wire clips to remove from elec. posts. Use pliers to gently remove clips. Tag the wires with tape to remember which wires go onto the new burner. Or take a close up picture with your phone to remember which wires go where. There are 2 philips head screws holding clips that hold the burner in place. The clips are slipped into a slot to help hold them in place. Mark the 2 slots so that when you remove the clips you will remember which slots to put them back into. You will need to hold the burner with one hand while you are removing the last clip as it could just fall out. Remove old burner and install new burner at same angle as was the old burner. You will have to make sure that the 2 clips are in the slotted openings first as you can not put them in place after the burner is installed in the opening. Reinstall the 2 screws into the 2 clips. Hold the electrical pole fittings with one hand while you gently reattach the electrical clips with a set of pliers. You may need to wiggle the clips back and forth to get them on securely. Remove the 2X4 and gently lower the burner top. The hardest part is now you have to slightly lift the back of the burner top while the front is lifted up and maneuver the back to drop down over the 2 pivots. Then the burner top will drop down in place so that the 2 screws in the range door opening can be reinstalled. I don't know of an easy way of making the top of the burner section fall down over the pivots except trial and error. Maybe use a flashlight to look back where the pivots are located while the top is propped open. That may help you visually to see what you are trying to do.

Remove two screws to loosen the ceramic top....prop top open and change part...the part was exactly the same...change wires from one to the other and transfer clamps.....1st grade craft class would have done it in half the time I did......you folks have your parts inventory and description application to a science.....God Bless

Threw the old one out - plugged the new one in. Steak came out just as ordered - medium rare.

Easily removed two screws, pulled the wires out of the oven wall, disconnected the old and reconnected the new, pushed it back into the insulation, inserted the screws and tightened them. There was a problem with the model number. It was on a vinyl plate inside the oven drawer wall. The plate was slightly yellowed so I used my finger to wipe the yellow away. When I did, the model number ended up as a black smudge on my finger tip. GE's engineers could have come up with a better method of displaying the model number. GE's customer service operator, however, did an excellent job of helping me to ascertain, at least, some of the number.