JBS160DM2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

took the back panel off the range, took the 2 screws holding the switch in place, took the old switch out, marked the wires took the wires off and clipped them onto the new switch, put the new switch into the switch plate, replaced the screws put on the knob, put the panel back on the range. rolled the range back into it's place. turned the buner on to check if it worked. It did so we were done.

I have a GE Profile oven and the heating element on the bottom broke in two. I found the part on your website very easily. It was easy to see that I had the correct part. I ordered the new element and it came in about three days. I easily took off the old element, but I was really surprised because the new one didn't fit. The heating element itself was the correct size, but the holes didn't quite match up. As a matter of fact I had to take some tin snips and expand the hole at the back of the oven. That was the only hard part, but it was really difficult to lean in that far without putting too much weight on the door. Anyway, I opened the hole about an inch more, plugged it in, and now it works perfectly!

Unplugged the burner unit. Removed the existing drip pan. Installed new drip pan in place & re-plugged the burner unit.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Remove lower drawer and contents. Unplug unit. Tilt range on its back for easy access. Tie open oven door to forward legs with sturdy rope. Use small socket to remove 2 back screws and 2 forward element hanger screws. Detach broiler element connections from wire clips(2). Insert new element, attach 2 new connections to clips first. Install back socket screws. Install front socket screws for element hanger. Slide in oven shelves. Release oven door rope. Lift range to normal position. Replace lower drawer. Plug 220 in. Test oven element then broiler.

I unpluged the stove pulled it out and took the 6 screws off the back to get to the switch. Around front take knob off and removed the two screws holding the swich in place and pulled it out the back. Pulled one wire at a time off of the old switch and replace on the new switch. Nothing to it had it done in just a few mins.

Exactly followed the instructional video and my installation was flawless. Now the burners power up and function like new. The whole repair was smooth and easy.

ordered part shut electricity off took out 2 screws took of connectors put in new element replaced connectors replaced screws turn on elec started cooking

This burner is on a Monarch wood and electric range. The 8in burner shorted out and fried the switch. I had to remove the cover over the switch's. I marked each lead with paper and stapled the paper to the leads. When the switch came in I just had to reattach the leads.

Disconnected the plug from the receptacle; removed the 2 screws holding the element in place at the rear of the oven; removed the support bracket at the front (also 2 screws); removed the panel on the back of the range; pulled the wire clips off the element (had to replace one of them); slid the new element in place; reconnected the wires and fastened the element in place; reattached the support bracket and rear panel ... With the assistance of my wife (extra hands) this was an easy job!

unplugged old block from both sides, ran new wire and plugged new wire to both ends and presto it worked, thanks for making it easy to fix. Thanks- Michael J Dumas

Followed the video supplied with the email on the parts order form. Biggest problem was pulling the range out from the wall, the repairs went without a hitch. The PartsSelect video was a great help showing the short cut to getting the new wires in by using the old wires as a pull wire.

Thanks to Partselect's instructions the repair went very easy. When I was done and the wife finished cleaning the sides of the stove and the floor behind it, I was surprised after I plugged the stove back in and noticed the clock was only 18 minutes off! Awesome company to deal with, Thanks!

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.

My wife could open and close the drawer without too much difficulty, but occasionally, it would not close properly and she would have to empty the contents do could alaign it properly to close. The last time she was talking about buying a whole new drawer. I asked her what the part looked like, as I never to fight with it. I went online and found the part for $1.16 plus shipping at $8 plus. It was well worth the time and effort, and I now have a happy wife. Paul Parker