JGB635REK4SS General Electric Range - Instructions

e-mailed my problem and reply was igniter our gas valve took a gamble and ordered the igniter. easy fix. two srews and plug in wires.

At first I didn't believe it was the igniter due to the fact that it was lighting up, but after reading some of these post, I thought I would give it a try. I accessed the igniter from the broiler drawer after taking out the pans. I removed two bolts with my nut driver and disconnected the wires at the plastic connector after removing the heat shield with a phillips screwdriver (1 screw). I also had to remove a clip to get the wires to pull threw the back of the stove. Here is where the fun began...While waiting on the part to arrive, I decided that it would be a good time to thoroughly clean the entire unit. During this process, I lifted the top of the range to far and cracked both front burner gas lines. After running around town trying to find the gas lines with no luck, I returned home and ordered them from PartSelect as well. The igniter arrived one day and the gas tubes the next. I reassembled the unit and everything works like new, thanks to PartSelect. One other note, when my igniter arrived, It had the exact same electrical plug that my original one had. Some of these post said that you would have to cut the connector off and use the porcelain wire nuts provided. The parts I received were manufacturer parts, no off brand replacements. Again Thank You PartSelect.

I removed the two screws that hold the element in place then I had to splice the wires because the connector was not right and used the two wire nuts that came with the unit .

removed lower broiler pan so i could see burner igniter. removed the heat shield in front of the gas valve. (1 screw). started oven. no response from igniter. no gas flow at all. if igniter is bad it will not allow gas to flow. ordered new igniter from parts select for my oven model. got it in a couple of days. it wasnt exactly the same as the original, but was compatible. it came with its own connector, but didnt fit. i had to cut it off and splice in the original connector. i had to remove the burner tube to remove the original igniter because the wire was routed around and behind the tube. it just took a couple of screws to remove it and it pulls right off. this is all accessible on the top of the broiler drawer. installed the two screws on the new igniter and plugged in the connector. started oven and igniter started glowing bright immediatly. oven burner lit off within a few seconds. everything working like new now.

oven and stove top burners worked fine, but broiler would not light. diagnosed problem as bad igniter. ordered parts on line and received them next day with regular shipping!

removed oven door and bake racks. removed old igniter and snipped wires.

installed new igniter and used ceramic wire nuts to attach wire leads.

reinstalled door and racks.

works fine. who knew home repairs could be so easy and fun!

I removed the oven door, the base panel of the oven and slid out the broiler tray. Next, I pulled the wires out of the access hole in the back of the oven, then diconnected the modular plug and removed the 2 screws fastening the ignitor. I tested the ignitor with my ohm meter and found out that it did not have the necessary zero ohms resistance. The meter indicated an open circuit, so I ordered the replacement part, which was delivered in less than 24 hours. Then I reassembled everything and tried the oven. Works like new again.

First removed 3 screws at burner front and back then pulled out lower storage drawer to disconnect plastic connector, removed and had to cut plastic connectors to use ceramic wire nuts (supplied with parts box) I had to work from underneath stove as well as in the oven it self, if the main door is easily removable it would have helped a great deal but four hours later

The part was the exact replacement and fit exactly. Had to cut some of the sheetmetal at the back of the broiler to get the wiring through.

Although the original oven design called for a round igniter, the most recent replacement, done by a service mechanic, utilized a flat igniter. I compared the appearance of this flat igniter to the igniters offered by PartSelect and found that the GE igniter (not the Roper which cost twice as much) matched exactly. I installed it and that solved the problem (of insufficient igniter heat to turn on the gas).

This is a wall mounted oven. Quickly removed the door off hinges (no tools needed). Removed two mounting philips head screws from old igniter. Pulled on wires from the old igniter from back of oven to expose connectors. Disconnected the old igniter. Because the new igniter had a different type of connector, I had to cut connectors off the oven wires as well as the new igniter and use the provided wire nuts. I stuffed the wires back into the back wall of the oven and repositioned the insulation, secured the new igniter and put the door back on. Job done, oven works fine.

two 1/4 inch screws took oven tray out....two 1/4 inch screws took out ignitor..the replacement would not plug into the wiring, so I cut the plastic plug off and wire nutted ends together..baked cookies after!!!!

I went on line found your web sight selected the igniter kit required for my stove. Your web site made it easy to select the part I needed after reviewing the diagram. It was very easy to install just unplug the old unit and plug in the replacement. I would recommend this site to others.
I saved a few dollars; just think if a tech had to come out?

Took out bottom of oven, took apart burner & cover. Replace the igniter, , put back together. BAM

new igniter had a plastic wire coupling that did not fit with the soves wires; cut off coupling and connected wires with ceramic wire nuts given, remounted ignitor and fired up the oven.

(I could hold a torch on the igniter to start it, then it would work, but would not initially heat up on its own). Pull up and remove oven door. Remove racks. Remove 2 thumb screws in back of bottom plate and remove plate. Remove 1 screw on cover plate. remove 2 screws on igniter and unplug. Splice wires from new igniter to old plug with ceramic wirenuts (included). (Manufacturer changed plug design). re-install everything. (Sears wanted $80.00 for the part, Appliance Factory wanted $47.00).