JB655DK7WW General Electric Range - Instructions

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

I replaced the element by taking out the screws that held the old element. Removed the old element but the wires went back into the insulation and I tried fishing them out. They just wouldn't come back down after much prying. I ended up taking the back panel off and pushing them back into the oven. Once I did that the replacement was easy.

The part was exactly what we needed. However, we didn't find the video online to show how to replace the part until we were almost finished. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovwcJhfWHXQ) If we had found the video, it would have saved us a lot of time because we undid more of the door than we needed to. Also, the video tells you exactly what size tools to use. However, taking the door more apart allowed us to clean more of the inside of the door. So, watch the video before you start, and also, be prepared to spend time cleaning the insides of the door. Also, when we put the door back together, we accidentally turned the front glass panel of the door upside down and it wasn't noticeable until we had put the door back on the oven. So, we had to take it apart again to fix it. All said, we're very happy with the new part. Thank you PartSelect!

I knew I had a bad control board. Using the repair videos, replacing this part was very easy to do. While I was at it, I replaced my oven temperature sensor. as well, and even though it wasn't bad, I replaced my oven heating element so that I could get some more mileage out of my 14-year-old range. The issue: after completing my repair actions, my oven element still would not heat. I double-checked my connections and I discovered I hadn't ensured one of the wires on the control board was properly seated. This was one of the wires that go to the heating element. After ensuring proper connection, everything worked perfectly!

Removed door from range(see manual for instructions). Set door face down on protective cloth material .Remove two top screwws, 3 bottom screws and lift back of door off. Remove two screws on each side of door bottom channel and remove channel. Put in new trim on bottom of glass window and put screws back in. Set back of door on top of front cover and screw two top screws and 3 bottom screws back in. Set door back into range. Lock clips on both hinges.

First I cut the circuit at the breaker, and then pulled the range from wall to access the access panel. This top panel was held with 4 screws and removable with a standard phillips head screwdriver.

I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.

The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.

I started with changing the bulb. I removed the small bracket that holds the glass cover over the bulb unscrewed the bulb and reversed to replace the bulb. To replace the control board I removed the top plate on the back of my stove took the small screw's out of the control panel and unplugged the wire's. Plugged the wire's into the right spots on the new control board and put it back together.

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.

Replaced burned element, did not fix no power problem. Ordered receptor replacement, replaced it, took less than 10 mminutes, but still no power to burned. Then ordered replacement switch, replacement too less than 10 minutes again and burner works fine.

1. Unplug the range power cord from the outlet.
2. Moved range away from the wall and countertop.
3.Using a nut driver removed the 2 screws on each side of the removable panel on the back side of the control knobs and clock.
4. Using a phillips head screwdriver remove 2 screws on top side of the back side panel.
5. Using a nut driver remove 4 screws that secure the main control board in place.
6. Take photo of the wiring on the main control board if not color coded.
7. My control board, and the replacement board were both color coded with the color with the wire placement on the rear of the board.
8. Remove wires with needle nose pliers.
9. Using a hair dryer, heat the plastic control panel face plate that fits onto the front of the old control board.
10.With a putty knife carefully pry the face plate from the old control board.
11. Install the control board face plate onto the new control board.
12. Install the color coded wiring in place on the back side of the control board.
13. Replace the control board into the range, and install screws, and rear panel of the range.
14. Plug cord into outlet and test range for proper operation.

unscrewed element from back of oven disconnected power source. Replaced new element & screwed new wires onto back of oven. Took 5 mins. Works like new. I am 73 yr old female so anyone can do it!

Ordered the part, it arrived and 5 minutes later it a complete installation

Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.

One wire at at time then used my razor blade to get front off stuck right back on

remove the 4 screw from the back of the control panel take the knob from the front and remove the two screws then raise the rear panel cover up. you can pull the switch from there make picture note of where the plug ups are for replacement its cool