PT7800DH8WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Very straight forward repair except for removal of the fan mount plate. There are 4 sheet metal screws, 2 of which are obvious and shown in the appliance diagrams, and 2 of which are neither on the appliance diagram nor obvious. These screws are beneath the motor assembly and oriented with the heads between the mounting plate and the top of the oven - about a 3/8 inch gap. Removal was accomplished using a 1/4 inch open end wrench strictly by feel as there is no sight line. Not all that challenging, but still a pain. On reassembly, these screws were reversed so that the head is now on the top of the plate and more accessible.

taking the oven out of the wall the most difficult part.. once you removing the sheet metal screws....be sure to take pictures as you dis-assemble putting back together will be easier. wait for correct part. second try they sent the correct part. put back together, test before putting back into wall.. big savings by doing it yourself.

there was one screw holding it on the back wall of the oven. It was easy enough that my daughter installed it with my guidance.

Everything worked on the display light inside worked but when you closed the door and set time it would start counting down but not heating nor would the turntable turn. Started reading troubleshooting chart and first thing I did was removed the cover and checked door switches and found primary door switch wasn't working so I ordered a new one installed it and it worked. Anyone doing this has to be very careful because of the stored energy in the capacitor is strong enough to kill.
My micro is only 2 years old so I was hoping it wasn't anything major.

Step 1, turn off circuit breaker, verify no power at the back of oven

Step 2, remove oven from wall/housing by removing 4 mounting screws, 2 on each side, just on the inside after opening the oven door...this was the most difficult part doing the repair on my own as the oven is a bit heavy...I was fortunate to have a old Workmate 425 work bench that folds/collapses, this allowed me to slide the oven out and drop down about 2 inches...reinstalling the oven I did have to use 2x4s to shim the oven level to slide it back in, with someone to assist this would not be necessary.

Step 3, remove covers to gain access to the blower and sensor

Step 4, remove the sensor

Step 5, install new sensor

Step 6, turn on the circuit breaker

Step 7, test the oven (success, Y, turn off breaker and reassemble all covers, install the oven, secure with the 4 mounting screws, turn on circuit breaker, test one more to ensure of proper operation...N, go to step 8

Step 8, turn off circuit breaker, reinstall original sensor

Step 9, remove blower

Step 10, install new blower

Step 11, turn on circuit breaker

Step 12, test oven, problem resolved, Y, go to step 13, N, continue troubleshooting.

Step 13, turn off circuit breaker

Step 14, replace all covers and reinstall oven, secure with 4 mounting screws

Step 15, turn on circuit breaker

Step 16, test, still operating properly Y, receive hugs and kisses from wife, N, do not make eye contact with wife, take dog for a long walk.

I removed the main cover ( torx security bit required) and tested the magnetron, capacitor, diode and door interlock switches according to instructions found on the internet. The capacitor and diode tested good but the magnetron looked burnt and corroded on the tip. The magnetron I received was an exact replacement for the original. It was easy to replace the magnetron which arrived in 2 days standard shipping. I also cleaned the fan while I had access to the inside area. Hoping to get another 18 years use from the microwave!

I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.

Removed the old canopy mica, it has tabs that slip into slots on the top of the microwave. Then installed the new part, the tabs are inserted into the same slots.

Removed screws from front of oven, placed a table under oven 2” below, places two rollers on table and pulled out the oven. Removed screws, replaced fan and reassembled. Move into place and secured front. Cleared faults and worked perfectly.

DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor
Leave unplugged overnight
Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws
Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw
Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely
Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door
Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity
Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel
GOOD LUCK

Unscrewed and dropped the bottom panel of the Advantium on its rear hinge, disconnected the light and the motor, removed the motor screws, and replaced the motor. Very simple.
However, not related to the Advantium or the motor, trim had been applied to the bottom of the wall cabinets after installation of the Advantium. This trim prevented the lowering of the panel (and future removal of the whole oven), so I had to chisel and file and repaint the trim to get it out of the way.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

Remove upper grill, then control panel, then 2 screws hold door switch mounting bracket, that will let you roll the switches out to work on them. Remove each switch by carefully pushing back retainer clips. Diode a long pair of needlenose pliers is helpful. The control board in front of capacitor comes out with a flat screwdriver and pry up. Removing grnd wires helps

I replaced the TCO (fuze) through the vent opening after removing the vent cover and several small panels with a screw driver for visible access.. Some of the screws require a small offset screwdriver because of the limited access. I did not have to drop the unit from the wall over the range and was able to access through the vent opening to replace to failed TCO with a new one. The TCO is wired in-line with the power and other fuses to the unit and when it fails the enitire unit is cold with no power to lights or function of any kind. The GE service rep. said that the unit needed a new smart board but that was not the problem and they are no longer made for the older unit. I discovered the repair by looking at YouTube for repairs for the GE Advantium 120 microwave/convection combo unit.

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order