PK7800SK5SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Remove microwave outer cover. Turn on side & locate the upper & lower door switches. Better to replace in pairs even if one is ok. Remove the wire harness to each switch. Then replace switch and re connect the wire harness. Re attach outer cover
and test to see if that solved the problem. If so then well done!!

First I disconnected the power and opened the door. Then I removed the top screws holding the top vent louvers, then removed the screw at the top of the touch pad. The touch pad removes by sliding up slightly then tilting top out. I unscrewed two screws holding the door latch assembly. Press the tab to remove and replace switch. Reconnect wires, reseat latch mount by placing top bracket tab in place first, allign and secure with screws. Reseat touch pad by placing bottom tabs in first, tilt forward and press up to seat top tabs, secure with top screw. Secure vent louver screws, plug in and watch your microwave work again.

I unplugged it, removed the outer shell with torque bits and a screwdriver, drained the main capacitor, and began debugging the circuit with my fluke multimeter, found the bad primary interlock, googled the part number, ordered the part, received it in 2 days, replaced the interlock in about 2 minutes, and put the cover back on. Fixed. Saved me about $200 over buying a new unit and was grateful for partselect's great service.

-Keith Packard

First and most important - unplug AC power 24 hours before service.

I removed the vent cover above the main door, then I removed the screw which holds the control panel in place, unplugged the main connector on the control panel so I would have enough room to work, removed grounding screw from the DIODE ASSY, pulled connector off the CAPACITOR with pliers, installed new DIODE ASSY.

After installation of DIODE and the control Panel, I plugged in the AC power and allowed the CAPACITOR to charge - this takes about an hour or so, then test. Works perfect!

Removed screws holding outer shell. Pushed in door handle to identify faulty switch. Ordered part. Pryed switch out with screw driver and unplugged. reinstalled new switch. Presto. BUT... I did NOT use both hands while working on the microwave. I did not release the energy from the capacitor or whatever holds the killer amperage even when unplugged. It would be advisable to do this first. I did not because it seemed complicated, so I was EXTREMELY CAREFUL about not touching anything else inside the unit. I used one hand only so if I did touch something I would not get juiced through the chest. It was a piece of cake repair, but I would not go deeper without doing the discharge routine.

It took a while to remove approx 30 screws to get to the blower. So my oven was sitting, torn apart while I waited on the new blower fan that I had ordered. It arrived shortly, about 5 days. When I opened the box I saw that PARTSELECT had sent me a drain pump instead of the blower fan that I had ordered. Since an oven does not require a drain pump and it wouldn't work to replace my broken blower fan I had to return it. I was told that I needed to send the part back in order to get a refund. After I sent their drain pump back at a cost of $13 they emailed me and said I didn't need to send the drain pump back. And they refunded me minus shipping So I had to pay shipping both ways for a part that was wrong. And I ordered it from someone else. I put the new blower fan that I had bought from another company in and replaced the 30 screws. And the oven has been working fine ever since. Thank you PARTSELECT for allowing me to tell people how you operate. They have a money back guarantee, but they don't give you back ALL your money. Thanks Again.

Had to remove outer cover (special screws involved). Found the correct part at PartSelect.Com and it arrived 3 days later as promissed.

This oven has diffcult electrical connections at switch to get disconnected. I found it easier with the sw loose and in hand so that the connectors can be released with a small screwdriver.

One has to this in order to test the part wirh an ohm meter. I found the sw did not close but remained open and thus caused the oven not to function.

Removing interconnect switch is tricky but not difficult.

Outer cover replacement is not as easy as it should be, especially the sides.

All is well and working.

Microwaves are simple devices if you are know how to read and understand schemetic diagrams.

Changed Fan Blower only, which cleared the Error Code F96.
Other parts have been kept as spares.

Turn power off to oven, removed screws holding oven into cabinet, get assistance to remove oven, I used 2 dinner table chairs to set the oven on, be careful as the front of the oven is heavier than the back. Removed the back sheet metal covers, about 20 screws or so. Removed Fan motor, replaced with new fan motor, and reversed installed. Oven works great.

After opening the Oven door, I removed the glass cover to view and locate the bulb, at the inside, top front of the Oven. Removed the burnt out bulb by pulling it in a forward motion towards the front of the Oven, slid the new bulb into place and the Oven is again functional.

First remove all screws holding on outer metal casing of microwave. Next remove the back and bottom metal pieces. You will then be able to pull aside the outer casing so you can access the door switches. Check each switch with an ohm meter in both the open position and with the switch closed. If the ohm meter reads the same in both the open and closed position, the switch is bad. Check the top switch first. Replace switch and reassemble. Cheap fix for a costly microwave. Great customer service at Parts Select!

Replaced upper cooling fan and board on double oven by removing covers on top and back.

TERRIBLE!!!!!!!
FIrst part arrived broken
Second part arrived broken
Third part arrived broken
Finally on the 4th try, the part arrived and was not broken.
I will NEVER again order parts from this company.

Very straight forward repair except for removal of the fan mount plate. There are 4 sheet metal screws, 2 of which are obvious and shown in the appliance diagrams, and 2 of which are neither on the appliance diagram nor obvious. These screws are beneath the motor assembly and oriented with the heads between the mounting plate and the top of the oven - about a 3/8 inch gap. Removal was accomplished using a 1/4 inch open end wrench strictly by feel as there is no sight line. Not all that challenging, but still a pain. On reassembly, these screws were reversed so that the head is now on the top of the plate and more accessible.

taking the oven out of the wall the most difficult part.. once you removing the sheet metal screws....be sure to take pictures as you dis-assemble putting back together will be easier. wait for correct part. second try they sent the correct part. put back together, test before putting back into wall.. big savings by doing it yourself.