JBS27BY2 General Electric Range - Instructions

Did it By Hand
Your Shipment Time Excellant
Order it Mon. Received it Wed.


Thank You

Easy

While I appreciate all the various parts available from PartSelect, I was disappointed that the only heater element that was approximately the right size and shape for my wall oven had push-on prongs. My original was screw-on.

Thus, I had to (very) carefully drill through the somewhat thick metal tabs to get screws into them. This meant holding the tabs with a pliers while I drilled them out to make sure that I did not break off the tab. Then, I increased the hole size by using increasing diameter drill bits. I let the screws self-tap, but again this was done carefully to avoid breaking off the tabs. Finally, I found that the part of the new heater element going through the back wall of the oven was an inch or so longer than the original. This did not seem to cause a problem of overheating outside the oven. At least not so far!

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

First I shut off the power at the power box. Second I removed two screws in metal plate. Third I unplugged the two wires. Repeated steps backwards and it works great.

saw when heating the stove up the bottom element wasn't getting hot. got part number and looked up online and ordered

Just removed the elements and inserted the new drip pans. Could not have been easier.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and unscrewed the the two screws that connected the wires and element together. I then tried to connect the new element to the wires, but found that the screw holes were smaller than the original holes in the old element and the original screws wouldn't fit. No problem, I then got a cordless drill and found a drill bit a little bigger than the holes, I held the element connector with pliers and made the screw hole a little bigger, same with the other connector. I screwed the screws into the connectors with a socket wrench and then screwed the element back into the holes in the oven, then turned on the oven and it works as good as new.

disconnected electricity, used pinch pliers to remove broken ends from connection box and used an already existing element to make sure a new one would work at all. Ordered new one that arrived very quickly and replaced the broken one. After years of taking these in and out for cleaning by outside cleaning help they are bound to break off. I will do the gentle removal from now on.

Removed oven door and racks. removed fan cover to expose elements two retaining screws.removed retaining screws and pulled burned element forward to expose electrical connectors.unconnected slide on connectors from old element and pushed leads onto new element and re-assembled.

I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.

First, used the nutdriver to remove the two screws that hold the element. Then pulled out the element 4 inches. Disconnected the two wires from the old element and discarded it. Connected the wires to the new element and tightened them a bit by squeezing with pliers (not too tight, but just enough so they won't disconnect easily). Pushed the wires back through the insulation and screwed the two nuts back in place, making adjustments so that the element is level.

I had a great experience with part select. The part was easy to find and arrive within two days in perfect conditions. Everything went smoothly with the repair and the element is working very well.

Pulled the old surface element out and plugged the new one in. Took all of 45 seconds!!!!!

It's nice to know that one can still get replacement parts for 50 year old stove tops!!!!

shut off power, removed self tapping nuts, removed element, put new element in, re-attached nuts.