JK3800SH7SS General Electric Range - Instructions

I used a Trox bit to remove one screw, replaced the oven sensor and reinstalled the screw. The whole project took less than 5 minutes.

I looked at the exploded pic on your web site to find the location of the sensor. Next I removed the cover by unscrewing 15 screws then swaped the sensor and re assembled! Works great! Fixing it my self I saved at least 150$ and did not have to wait all day for a repair man who probaly would not have the part on the first visit.

Changed Fan Blower only, which cleared the Error Code F96.
Other parts have been kept as spares.

TERRIBLE!!!!!!!
FIrst part arrived broken
Second part arrived broken
Third part arrived broken
Finally on the 4th try, the part arrived and was not broken.
I will NEVER again order parts from this company.

Turn power off to oven, removed screws holding oven into cabinet, get assistance to remove oven, I used 2 dinner table chairs to set the oven on, be careful as the front of the oven is heavier than the back. Removed the back sheet metal covers, about 20 screws or so. Removed Fan motor, replaced with new fan motor, and reversed installed. Oven works great.

Step 1, turn off circuit breaker, verify no power at the back of oven

Step 2, remove oven from wall/housing by removing 4 mounting screws, 2 on each side, just on the inside after opening the oven door...this was the most difficult part doing the repair on my own as the oven is a bit heavy...I was fortunate to have a old Workmate 425 work bench that folds/collapses, this allowed me to slide the oven out and drop down about 2 inches...reinstalling the oven I did have to use 2x4s to shim the oven level to slide it back in, with someone to assist this would not be necessary.

Step 3, remove covers to gain access to the blower and sensor

Step 4, remove the sensor

Step 5, install new sensor

Step 6, turn on the circuit breaker

Step 7, test the oven (success, Y, turn off breaker and reassemble all covers, install the oven, secure with the 4 mounting screws, turn on circuit breaker, test one more to ensure of proper operation...N, go to step 8

Step 8, turn off circuit breaker, reinstall original sensor

Step 9, remove blower

Step 10, install new blower

Step 11, turn on circuit breaker

Step 12, test oven, problem resolved, Y, go to step 13, N, continue troubleshooting.

Step 13, turn off circuit breaker

Step 14, replace all covers and reinstall oven, secure with 4 mounting screws

Step 15, turn on circuit breaker

Step 16, test, still operating properly Y, receive hugs and kisses from wife, N, do not make eye contact with wife, take dog for a long walk.

Very straight forward repair except for removal of the fan mount plate. There are 4 sheet metal screws, 2 of which are obvious and shown in the appliance diagrams, and 2 of which are neither on the appliance diagram nor obvious. These screws are beneath the motor assembly and oriented with the heads between the mounting plate and the top of the oven - about a 3/8 inch gap. Removal was accomplished using a 1/4 inch open end wrench strictly by feel as there is no sight line. Not all that challenging, but still a pain. On reassembly, these screws were reversed so that the head is now on the top of the plate and more accessible.

there was one screw holding it on the back wall of the oven. It was easy enough that my daughter installed it with my guidance.

taking the oven out of the wall the most difficult part.. once you removing the sheet metal screws....be sure to take pictures as you dis-assemble putting back together will be easier. wait for correct part. second try they sent the correct part. put back together, test before putting back into wall.. big savings by doing it yourself.

Unscrewed and dropped the bottom panel of the Advantium on its rear hinge, disconnected the light and the motor, removed the motor screws, and replaced the motor. Very simple.
However, not related to the Advantium or the motor, trim had been applied to the bottom of the wall cabinets after installation of the Advantium. This trim prevented the lowering of the panel (and future removal of the whole oven), so I had to chisel and file and repaint the trim to get it out of the way.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

I replaced the TCO (fuze) through the vent opening after removing the vent cover and several small panels with a screw driver for visible access.. Some of the screws require a small offset screwdriver because of the limited access. I did not have to drop the unit from the wall over the range and was able to access through the vent opening to replace to failed TCO with a new one. The TCO is wired in-line with the power and other fuses to the unit and when it fails the enitire unit is cold with no power to lights or function of any kind. The GE service rep. said that the unit needed a new smart board but that was not the problem and they are no longer made for the older unit. I discovered the repair by looking at YouTube for repairs for the GE Advantium 120 microwave/convection combo unit.

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

Went on Youtube and pulled up how to fix a microwave.