JK3800DH7BB General Electric Range - Instructions

taking the oven out of the wall the most difficult part.. once you removing the sheet metal screws....be sure to take pictures as you dis-assemble putting back together will be easier. wait for correct part. second try they sent the correct part. put back together, test before putting back into wall.. big savings by doing it yourself.

Step 1, turn off circuit breaker, verify no power at the back of oven

Step 2, remove oven from wall/housing by removing 4 mounting screws, 2 on each side, just on the inside after opening the oven door...this was the most difficult part doing the repair on my own as the oven is a bit heavy...I was fortunate to have a old Workmate 425 work bench that folds/collapses, this allowed me to slide the oven out and drop down about 2 inches...reinstalling the oven I did have to use 2x4s to shim the oven level to slide it back in, with someone to assist this would not be necessary.

Step 3, remove covers to gain access to the blower and sensor

Step 4, remove the sensor

Step 5, install new sensor

Step 6, turn on the circuit breaker

Step 7, test the oven (success, Y, turn off breaker and reassemble all covers, install the oven, secure with the 4 mounting screws, turn on circuit breaker, test one more to ensure of proper operation...N, go to step 8

Step 8, turn off circuit breaker, reinstall original sensor

Step 9, remove blower

Step 10, install new blower

Step 11, turn on circuit breaker

Step 12, test oven, problem resolved, Y, go to step 13, N, continue troubleshooting.

Step 13, turn off circuit breaker

Step 14, replace all covers and reinstall oven, secure with 4 mounting screws

Step 15, turn on circuit breaker

Step 16, test, still operating properly Y, receive hugs and kisses from wife, N, do not make eye contact with wife, take dog for a long walk.

Very easy to replace. This replacement part is the perfect fit for my microwave since the original part has been discontinued. It does have the night light and bright light feature.

I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

Unscrewed and dropped the bottom panel of the Advantium on its rear hinge, disconnected the light and the motor, removed the motor screws, and replaced the motor. Very simple.
However, not related to the Advantium or the motor, trim had been applied to the bottom of the wall cabinets after installation of the Advantium. This trim prevented the lowering of the panel (and future removal of the whole oven), so I had to chisel and file and repaint the trim to get it out of the way.

DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor
Leave unplugged overnight
Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws
Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw
Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely
Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door
Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity
Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel
GOOD LUCK

Remove upper grill, then control panel, then 2 screws hold door switch mounting bracket, that will let you roll the switches out to work on them. Remove each switch by carefully pushing back retainer clips. Diode a long pair of needlenose pliers is helpful. The control board in front of capacitor comes out with a flat screwdriver and pry up. Removing grnd wires helps

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!

PER YOUR INSTRUCTION

unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced

First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.

Went on Youtube and pulled up how to fix a microwave.

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now