JBP25DK2CT General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- emmett from rocky mount, NC
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
F2 fault code kept appearing on oven
Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.
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- Customer:
- Terry from SEATTLE, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466, 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Oven control panel shorted while remove a broken lightbulb from the oven
I removed the new control panel from its packaging and noticed that the button overlay was not included. I grabbed a putty knife and carefully loosened the adhesive on the old panel and was able to apply it to the new control panel. After installing it I looked up the number of my old panel on the included paperwork and simply entered the “profile” number after powering up the new one and It worked perfectly. I was very relieved to not have to buy a new range!
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- Customer:
- Martin from plainfield, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Front Large Most Powerful Burner's Block had broken so it didn't heat
This electric stove has a lift up top which I lifted to get at the block and follow the wire back to the terminal at the back of the the stove. I removed the 5 small lag screws holding the back in place, removed the backing followed the wires back to where they connected in the Stove On/Off Control, disconnected the two wires from the control and then laid the new part in place rethreading and reconnecting the wires. I reinstalled the block and ran a test to ensure the burner operated correctly. After successful testing I disconnect the old block holder by removing the small lag screw, replace it with a new one that came with the replacement terminal block. I then inserted the block into the new holder carefully rolled up the excess wire and wrapped it in a couple of places with electrical tape and also secured it to the side of the stove, out of the way of operation with electrical tape, put the top down, plugged it back in and put it back in place. All told the repair took about 40 minutes. I was impressed with the speed of delivery, the quality of the product, the instructions for installation and the added bonus of getting a terminal block holder as part of the repair kit! Thank You for making me look like a genius!
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- Customer:
- Russell from Yuma, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Oven Wouldn't Heat
Replaced
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- Customer:
- Jim from Williamsburg, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
oven would not heat
I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried the oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.
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- Customer:
- marc from PARK RIDGE, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB56T10105
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broker inner glass
Very easy to remove the parts and to reassemble
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- Customer:
- Emmett J from Winchester, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
terminal was broken due to maney uses
unscrew the terminal block,pulled the old wires out,installed the new wires installed the new block
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- Customer:
- CIRILO from WHITING, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10011
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
MYy wife left the oven racks in and used oven cleaner.
Removed old racks and replaced with new racks.
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- Customer:
- marlene from Pilgrim, KY
- Parts Used:
- WB44T10009
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
top oven heating element
I first turned off power, then I removed the old top oven heating element, I connected the new element to power supply then placed the element back into holders.
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- Customer:
- Gregoire from N CHESTERFLD, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
OVEN CLOCK CONTROL MALFUNCTIONED
I turned off the circuit breaker and unplugged the stove. I removed the back panel and marked the location of the wires on the new oven clock control. I detached the wires and removed the old card. I installed the new one and reconnected the wires. I plugged the stove and turned on the circuit breaker. All the lights came on and the oven worked fine. I reinstalled the back panel and it took me less than thirty minutes to complete the job.
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- Customer:
- Marco from Santa Barbara, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Two sockets for electric elements and their end terminals were badly burned.
0) Take the back cover of the range off.
1) Carefully noted how the wires and the sockets were connected.
2) Visually checked that the new parts were practically identical old ones.
3) Put together the new sockets from the parts in the kit.
4) disconnect the old sockets and put the new sockets in place.
5) For each unit disconnect one old wire at the time and connect the new wire. Repeat the same for second wire.
6) Neatly bunch together the rest of the wires with electrical tape. Do not cut the wires!
That's it! It took about 20-30 minutes.
1) Carefully noted how the wires and the sockets were connected.
2) Visually checked that the new parts were practically identical old ones.
3) Put together the new sockets from the parts in the kit.
4) disconnect the old sockets and put the new sockets in place.
5) For each unit disconnect one old wire at the time and connect the new wire. Repeat the same for second wire.
6) Neatly bunch together the rest of the wires with electrical tape. Do not cut the wires!
That's it! It took about 20-30 minutes.
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- Customer:
- Anthony from FARMINGVILLE, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Incorrect oven temperature due to defective temperature sensor.
Performed repair using a video for reference.
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- Customer:
- sherman from OPELOUSAS, LA
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The burner coil had shorted out and actually burnt a hole in my non stick pan and after I replaced that, it would not heat up again. I actually swapped the wires from the back burner, but the small coils use a different watt switch and it would barely boil water with the big coil. So I ordered this
First turn off the breaker, and test with my milti meter. Raise the top panel where the coils are and prop it open high enough to use a screwdriver to open the front panel.
Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one.
Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.
Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one.
Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.
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- Customer:
- Mayree from Rocky Mount, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB44T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
The bottom element would not come on
Took out the 2 screws,Pulled out the stove
Took the back off ,took the wires out of the little place where they fit in,Removed the old element.
Put the new one in Fitted the little thing which looked like a alumium flat piece back where we took the old one out.Put the back back on cut it on wheepe In business.Also the new element came here faster than I thought it would .I,m a 71 yearold grandmother.Pretty simple.
Took the back off ,took the wires out of the little place where they fit in,Removed the old element.
Put the new one in Fitted the little thing which looked like a alumium flat piece back where we took the old one out.Put the back back on cut it on wheepe In business.Also the new element came here faster than I thought it would .I,m a 71 yearold grandmother.Pretty simple.
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- Customer:
- Linda from Ravenel, SC
- Parts Used:
- WB44T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven would not heat.
My stove would not heat. I could see that the bake element had a hole burned through it. Found this website. I was confused about what part I needed so I called the phone number and the girl was very good at locating exactly which element my stove needed after I gave her the stove make and model #. I ordered the part on Thursday afternoon. The part arrived on Saturday afternoon.
The hardest part of fixing it was finding the correct screw driver socket thingy (I'm not a technical person) to get the screws off with. Thankfully my neighbor had what I needed. I pulled my stove out from the wall (primarily because I needed to clean under there) and unplugged it. Unscrewed the screws, pulled the old element out until I could see the wire connections. I used clothes pins to hold the wires from going back into the stove once I unhooked them from the element (another tip I learned on this website) and simple slipped the wire connectors onto the new element, pushed it back into place, put the screws back on, plugged it in and TA DA... was baking a pizza in no time.
Very very VERY easy repair!!!
The hardest part of fixing it was finding the correct screw driver socket thingy (I'm not a technical person) to get the screws off with. Thankfully my neighbor had what I needed. I pulled my stove out from the wall (primarily because I needed to clean under there) and unplugged it. Unscrewed the screws, pulled the old element out until I could see the wire connections. I used clothes pins to hold the wires from going back into the stove once I unhooked them from the element (another tip I learned on this website) and simple slipped the wire connectors onto the new element, pushed it back into place, put the screws back on, plugged it in and TA DA... was baking a pizza in no time.
Very very VERY easy repair!!!
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