JSP26BW4AD General Electric Range - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires,held wires one at a time so tehy wouln't slip back into rear holes in oven, slid off connector tabs and pushed on to replacement unit...)

I removed two small screws located on the underside of the control panel. I then rotated the bottom of the control panel up and dislodged the few connections at top back of control panel. The control panel became loose enough to lay forward exposing the inner control switches. The old problem switch wiring was removed one by one and placed in the same spot on the new switch. The old switch was then removed by pulling off the front control knob and then unscrewing two screws holding the old switch in place. Then the new switch was installed exactly as the old switch was removed.

standard procedure, very simple

At first thought I was taking out some insulation but. "Clamp" just slid off and was very easy to install! Finding the right size socket took longer than the repair!

All I had to do was just unscrew the bolts,pull out the old one, and put the new one on its metal clips and then rebolt.So easy and I know I would have had to pay much more then what I did for the part..This place is super.I ordered my part one day, and it was there the next...Sandy

It took a nutdriver to remove two nuts. The defective element was removed and the replacement installed. It works great!

unplug it and plug the new one in

The job went over without a hitch, only probably didn't get the correct part first go around, but after getting the right part everything went very easy..Just a couple of screws where the elment goes in and 2 wires to plug back into the new element, after that everything was good to go!!

1. Turned off electrical breaker for range.
2. Removed the two hex head screws that hold element in place.
3. Pulled element out and unplugged the two electrical connectors.
4. Attached connectors to new element and attemped to push element back into the opening. It would not go in all the way.
5. Apparently some of the insulation had fallen down and was blocking the area where the element slides in.
6. I used a long thin screwdriver inserted into the two holes to push the insulation aside.
7. The element was then able to go in all the way.
8. Replaced two hex head screws.
9. Turned on range breaker.
10. Turned on oven. Works fine.

first i removed the two screws that hold the element in place. then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires .then i connected the two wires and pushed thebake element back and replaced the two screws.then i put the circuit braker back on and tested the stove and it worked great. very easy to do.

I turned off the main power! Then unscrewed the back cover unhooked the wires and unscrewed the coil inside of the oven and pulled it out. My 10yr old son and I measured it and went online to order the part. I first did go into BestBuy and they didn't have the part (But they tried to sale me a new oven!) LOL Now who said a newly divorced mom couldn't fix her own oven! My Tech Support skills came in handy! Women Rock! LOL

Was very difficult to be certain of the right controller due to the exact model number of the range did not exist. Somewhat of an expensive part to make a guess.
After contacting no less than 5 parts dealers, Part Select was the only company that could immediately identify the correct number, (the model # on the range had an extra zero in the middle).
Was able to purchase the part confident it was correct, at a good price, with fast shipping.
Thanks

After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son had spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.

I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS
LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL,
OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER,
UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL
TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS
SCREW THE OTHER ENDS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR

Bent the tips so the phillament can fit inside the oven.