JGB635DEK3CC General Electric Range - Instructions

need instructions

I let my brother do the actual installation but it only look about 15 min. I did look at the website of the appliance manufacturer first and then came to this website. The cost of the part I needed was almost half as much as the other site. When I saw that someone with the same oven model number and had the same problem and was able to fix it, I decided to order here. It came quickly and my oven now works.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

In my case it was the lower burner so I unplugged oven and turned gas off.
Then I removed the bottom drawer, and the lower burner cover.
Next unplug Oven Igniter, found where drawer existed.
Removed 2 screws attaching Igniter using nutdriver
Placed new Igniter on
Plug Igniter in and tested oven
Replace burner cover and drawer


This was much easier then what I went through with a repair man the first time around. These Igniter are designed for certain model stoves and are not interchangable with other model stoves!!!

I thought I was being a total girl and was afraid of fixing my oven myself, but when it took forever to get my landlord to come over and fix my oven I ordered the part, got it in three days, followed the directions online and fixed it myself! Easy, easy! Turned off the electric, switched off the gas, unscrewed 2 bolts, unplugged the old switch, screwed in the new switch, replugged it and turned on the stove. Roasted a chicken and baked bread within minutes!

I deturmined that the flame starter was not pulling enough amps to open the gas valve (safety valve) . pulled two hand screws and removed floor of oven exposing the flame bar and flame starter. removed two screws on flame starter. removed lower pan drawer and disconected the electrical plug for flame starter. replaced in reverse order. easy.

I found that it was a little easier to pull out the stove to do the electrical connections. First I pulled out the stove being very careful not to bend the gas line. I pulled out the wires and disconnected them. I removed the 2 screws that hold the igniter and compared it to the new one it matched. I hooked it back up with the 2 screws then did the wire connections pushed the stove back carefully and tested the new igniter it worked like new no more microwave dinners thanks parts select .com

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Unplugged the stove and pulled it out from the wall. Took the metal shield off the back of stove held by 2 screws. Unplugged the Molex connector for the igniter. unscrewed the round metal shield covering the opening where the igniter wires run to the back of the stove. Removed the 2 screws that held igniter bracket to the burner. Next, I pulled the wires and Molex connector through the opening. Installed new igniter in the reverse order. Be very careful with new igniter as they are very fragile and can break easily.

Removed the screws that held the shield in place. Then unplugged the igniter and removed the 2 screws that hold igniter in place. I had to cut the connector off the new igniter and wire nut the old connector on because of a different connector.
I then put everything back together and ooolaalaa, it worked!!!!!!!

Thanks for the quick service,
Tom

First I removed the racks and oven bottom panel. Then I took out the two screws holding the ignighter unplugged the wire connection and removed the old ignighter, compared the old with the new one mounted it back with the two screws plugged it back in. Job finished in 15 minutes and oven back working again.

Removed oven racks, removed lower oven shelf panel by using a flathead screwdriver and removed two screws on the back edge of the panel. Removed flat style ignitor (two hex head screws)from the gas burner tube using a 3/16 nutdriver. Disconnected two wires from the ignitor. Removed the two pin connector from the new ignitor, stripped the insulation to expose about a 1/4 inch of bare wire at the ends of the wire where the connector was removed. Installed the ignitor to the gas burner tube using the 3/16 hexhead screws. Connected the wires using porcelain wire nuts. Re-installed the lower oven shelf panel, flathead screws and the oven racks. Oven worked as advertised.

I watched the repair video on YouTube and followed his instructions as much as possible. Went pretty well as I thought it would be harder. I’m pretty handy so, I was pleased.

remove the door,racks,cover over burner,burner,element,replaced element and rest in reversed order.

First I removed the botoom drawer.
Second, removed three 1/4 in (head size) screws and removed the reflector pan from the bottom of the oven.
Third I removed the three racks in the main part of the oven and then the two slot head screws that retain the oven floor. I then removed the oven floor.
Four, now that I had access to the ignitor, I removed the two 1/4 (head size) screws that mounted the ignitor to the burner.
Fifth I disconnected the wire plug which is located in the lower section of the oven. I was unable to route the wire with it's connector on out of the oven, so I just snipped the wires and took it out in two pieces.
Installation was just the reversal of this with the obvious exception of snipping the wires. I was able to route the wires differently so that I did not have to pass the connector behind any restrictions.
Finally afte all was reassembled, I did an ops check and everything worked just fine.